Evening Moda Hustlers. Been scrivere about patterned shirts all week. Love this image of Prada SS14 styled by Edward Enninful shot by Emma Summerton for the next in the series of Pradas ‘Iconoclasts’ editor shop take overs. Edwards was inspired by The Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s.
Blue faces: Whos got the chalk?
This is release as too knackered to write it up at mo’.
An electric time of artistic explosion and cultural exchange for the African American community in the United States in the 1920s, the ‘Harlem Renaissance’ represented a new creative spirit. Stars such as Louis Armstrong, Billie Holiday, Josephine Baker and Ella Fitzgerald were born, and the air buzzed and fizzed with jazz and ideas.
Taking this spirit of creativity as his cue, Enninful’s Prada women’s store will be filled with a cast of black and white mannequins dressed in Prada SS14 and archive looks – guests at an imagined 1920s club – complete with glittering art- deco bar, evoking the atmosphere of Harlem. The men’s store will host a cast of black and white mannequins dressed in Prada SS14 and archive pieces, set amongst game tables, 1920s food and cocktails, and the strains of a jazz blues trio. New fashion images shot by Emma Summerton and Enninful will be presented in both stores.
Morning Denizens of Dapper. Just who doesnt like a nice holdall first thing to put all your bits in as you dash out? Am double keen on this APC one, and thats my only excuse for presenting it. Might pack you a little action bag of gear that have been operating with this week. Might.
Here’s a kettle I was pleased to be reacquainted with in Geneva last month. The IWC Aquatimer is back with its internal rotating bezel. I told zem in zi Schaffhausen it was folly to stick zi bezel outside like every other diving watch, thats vhat was good about zi Aqua’. A couple of years of bezel flailing and now they’re back where they should be. A very internal affair.
Aquatimer Automatic 2000
Boys own favourite ranking Italian casual brand, Stone Island, are doing bins this summer. Love the look of their press shots. Very pure Stoney ethic at work there. Forgot who’re making them. Its in my note book, but note book is not in bed. There’s a clue.
Stoney bings- Its a new thing.
Fancy some footwear before I loggy off? Will see what can rustle up. Oh look, its these guys again..
Nike Flyknit Loonies +2
Good for short, fast runs, running fans. How do they know that? I think they’ll be good with my Lot 78 cashmere modal trackie when I get it. Action gear? Cant get enough of it, as Spencer Davis claimed. Deadlines-shmedlines, this has got me at it, am off running. Now this lot couldnt get enough fitness, right gang? Take it away..
Morning Style Merchants. Have to very briefly mention The Bafta red carpet from Sunday, might come back to it, but it’ll be older news than it even is now. Some men that looked okay are on GQ.Com (click) but they had to resort to putting some blokes that didnt even dress that well in too. More ‘Reasonably/Acceptably Dressed’ than ‘Best Dressed’. I was shocked by the whole red carpet spectacle, not just the men. Hamish Bowles stood out by the way, not only for his lively, artfully executed take on evening wear, slipper print vs tartan pushing the envelope he was opening, but because he simply walked straight up the carpet and into the Opera House. That act alone marked him out as a dignfied chap. Bravo Bowlesy.
Hamish Bowles nicely up the red carpet.
Not gonna get sidetracked too badly, as believe it or not am on doppio deadline again, but something needs to be done about the wrong carpet scene. Here’s the rough set up. Excuse my lingua on this, but is only way to get the truth across. Outside the barriers are hordes of baying (and they were baying and banging the barriers like savages at times) proles, who’d been there for however long to catch sight of people from films and aimlessly scream their names. Totes horrid scene. Then inside the barriers a steady lapping tide of appallingly dressed Bafta industry guests/corporate people drifted in, stopping continuously to take selfies or group shots of each other to the point of causing idiot bottle-necks of tawdry self-congratulatory photo-documentary. They were all at it. It was hideous to behold. Ghastly peope buoyed by their position on the nasty red nylon into blithely ignoring any protocol or elegance, taking pony snaps of each other to brandish and distribute later. God help us. Layers of wrongness the Baying Proles also filming the Red Carpet Plebs filming each other, with the alarmed/anxious actors (some style savvy/some not so) picking their way through this awful post-modern conceit nightmare scenario, trying to find the correct TV crew to talk to. Bafta seriously need to ban red carpet selfies. Am not messing. It reached naff epidemic and it was properly awful scene that ensued. Shame on you, you completely naff pillocks. To make matters far, far worse, the red carpet plebs were dressed so, so badly you wouldn’t believe me. Makes me wonder if setting bar far too high in editorial, and perhaps should be saying, “do please try and wear actual black shoes with a dinner suit, fun waistcoats/matching pattern ties are awful and also its best to get a dry cleaner to actually turn your trousers up to the length that approximately sits on/near your nasty footwear”. Heinous crimes against evening wear. It’s the middle Middle Class that get it really wrong I reckon. Surely they should know better, maybe not? People below/foreigners seek help, the above middle-do in fact know better (in many cases), but the middle just glibly think they know and wing it. They don’t. Some actors dressed well. Some did not. That is my review thus far.
PS. I really like this shot of Coogan and O’Leary just before they did interview. Tense but cool, no? O’Leary is in Gieves&Hawkes, innit?
Evening Night Merchants. No time to banter, as ev’, but regardless compelled to mention my Emma Willis (click) ivory raw silk pique shirt than am debuting to the Vanity Fair Villiam Wintage bash. Gotta couple of other debuts to go with, but the shirt is what wanna talk about. Actaully, gonna let Willis do the talking, she does it so well. She’s like the shirt, a totes show-stopper, no mistake.
Emma’s Gloucester factory created this for me before I could say knife, roughly speaking, and I am properly thrilled. I had them make the collar more spear shaped, am feeling that way at the moment, but other than that, the styling is all Emma’s. Added vintage MOP studs that Spencer Hart vend, and some vintage cufflinks that the lovely Luxury Missus gave me, although alas she’s now gone I am afraid. Big S&E shout out the charming Alex on Jermyn and the gals dem in the factory. Thank you so much. Over to Willis in the Gloucester studio..
Emma Wilis, official First Lady of Shirts (global) on her Oxford Silk and pique silk bib fronted evening shirt: “I think ivory silk has always been the most elegant man’s evening shirt and I tried to find the original heavy, matt weight that our grandfathers used to wear.”
“This would have probably been from China in the days of the Empire, but now Italian silk is by far the best quality so I went to the Canepa in Northern Italy and looked through all their archives as I could not find the right weight in any seasonal collections. They had a beautiful heavy, matt silk known as Oxford Seta Diano, where they weave the silk yarn using the same technique as Oxford cotton. It had the texture, weight and finish I was looking for. I have to weave 1000mts each time as they set up a huge loom especially, but they can keep the warp and change the way they weave the weft to create a pique ivory silk in the same weave which I also wanted for a bib fronted evening shirt which I knew had never been done.”
“I have been re ordering now for 12 years and making this unique evening shirt. The seams as in all our shirts are the tiny, neat single stitched seams which is important for the lightest look in silk evening wear, with a rounded bib front not seen very often these days as it is hard to sew well, especially in silk, The buttons are on a band so the shirt can be worn very formally with 3 or 4 studs or with the smaller Mother of Pearl evening button front.
“It is now one of our most loved shirts worn by Mr Porter’s Toby Bateman, Vanity Fair’s Graydon Carter amongst others and still there must only be about 1500 in the world!”
What can one say, but thank you for your testimony on this Emma Willis. Off the hook elegance from someone who knows. Gotta add the seaming is so beautiful and delicate which is why had to shoot so many shots of it. Do hope dont get Vanity Fair vol au vent all down it now, eh? Talking of vol au vent on your clothes, Matey Off The Telly is going tonight with his fit, party savvy wifey, Dee. He’ll be in Thom Sweeney, as it’s gonna go with Dee’s look best, I ventured. See you lot soon. Some tunes to warm up to? Just thinking, what would work? Dub set? maybe not. Roxy’ Mother of Pearl, right. Couldn’t think of a good ivory themed song, see. Take it Bry’
PS. Am busting new Brunello Cucinelli midnight blue shawl affair, Willis Dickie, Lanvin grey/silver satin bow tie, Alberto Moretti bow-tie Baroness Thatcher velvet courts- quite outre for me/men, and some other bits. Shite. Gonna be late. TAXI!
Morning FlashFundamentalists. Technically am working flat out on various deadlines for a couple of publications, and havent even got a moment to fry some wild boar black pudding from Biella. Technically. So I probably havent got time to be weighing up which dress slipper best to slip it to them at Vanity Fair’s bash on Friday night, technically. But just say I had, what do you reckon? As ever am striving to keep it real, obviously.
Alberto Moretti Bow Tie midnight velvet slipper
Bang into Morettis slipper & loafer work, you should see AW14- On the glam shoes stakes, he’s in there like swimwear. Except its eveningwear, of course. Still, its doppio opulent, shall we say, opulent with a humours and leery edge. Smashing.
Louis Leeman suede slipper with gold tassells
Then there’s Louis Leeman. Enjoying their creations as much. These are more like Byzantine court poseurs loafers, no? Anyway, under cosh like Osh B’gosh..to all you baying editors out there, the suns come out, and things might just pan out okay, if we can just hang on for a bit more. I’m halfway home, and I’m half on deadline.. Dee C, Steve, Mick & Paul have got a suggestion for you all. Take some Counsil please. Ready T.S.C. gang>