Morning Style Merchants. Seems suitably incongruous to banter briefly bout London Collections: Men, no? Best things presented were Kilgour, Dunhill, Gieves&Hawkes and E.Tautz, with a dash of Thom Sweeney. Not changing my record much? Why should I, it’s a killer little team, so nay-sayers simply step from me. This has been rattling bout in my out-box for a week so gonna fire it off, half baked, far from whole. You know the drill, no? Kilgour notes are below, the AW15 stuff is extremely interesting and very clever.
Kilgour AW15 non-commersh, strictly non-sym’.
Kilgour is all about ultra contemporary tailoring, of course (click). You need to see the gear on to fully appreciated it. It all works, as it were. Will put some of the commercial collection up too. Also interesting was the ‘thread’ optic installation that Brandelli had installed, in line with the theme of this season.
The canapes were by Jean Michel Jarre.
Asymmetry was deftly explored and the new ‘K’ front design, where the panels suggest the outline of a K without making it a whole. A K hole, if you will. Go have a shufty, its one of the best style spectacles in London, bar nought. The shops a proper hoot, too, if you’re into your granite.
Kilgour overcoat AW15 from commercial collection.
The clothes are special too, via thought, effect and execution. Bless Carlo Brandelli for actually doing something like this, then being totally resolute bout it. Had a really funny row with him later at Marks Club that night in front of his wife, for sport/truth/clarity, I think. We were both in grey flannel suits, but thats where the synchronicity ended. I was busting pure immense fronted double-breasted, rope-shouldered Sexton. Carlo was being so modern he’ not only abolished buttons from his jacket, but had abandoned shirting and outlawed nipples completely. We were the Yin & Yang of charcoal grey flannel suits. At least we managed to accidentally synchronise a Tourette’s moment over Steve Reich, which was pleasant contrast to the clash of worlds/opinion (click).
Kilgour AW15 also, non-commersh.
I explained that without retro-styling pillocks (post modernists) like me parading bout, he would not have any context to be a Sartorial Smart Alec in. He wasnt having a bar of it. I also pointed out to Carlo that he had a right result the company wasn’t called something beginning with a less tailoring compatible first letter, such as Quagmour. Serendipitous he agreed. Another rare moment.
This is so far from reporting, but then I am far from being a reporter at mo’. More like a fact/image/price grinder right now than a journo per se. Trying to rectify, really I am. Then the chandelier needs polishing, and so it goes on..