Evening Style Mongers. Shot this on The Row during LondonFashionWeekColonMenapostropheS. The Doctor wasnt even practising. Gotta love his all British flex, non, including Peter Jones? #Strong. Full Marx.
The Doctor snagged the Gary A’ coat for £990 in the J.J.Cale. How there is a bespok sale, I dont know, but he must have special dispensation. Lock softy Fedor a is a bit spesh. Other moments included the tiny orb&septre on his Vivienne Westwood
Nice one Doctor, was top plezj’ stancing to you. I dubbed it a serious statement Sunday ensemble for LFWM’s and the Doctor explained ” I have standards- to blend in!”
Meanwhile, in other news, my hippy nerd, Karoli, who I am very fond of (note), has gone (effectively) mental and AWOL as well. The double*.Last heard from in Budapest. Need a new nerd. Let it be heard. I’m doing the best that I can…
Morning Style Merchants. Back from the mens shows and all that. Appear to have defaulted on udates on this fractured-chronicle for 13 days or so, missing London Fashion Week Mens, Pitto Uomo, Milan Mens and Paris Mens Weeks. Not to mention the Geneva Haute Horoloy Watch Swindle conferance. Quite bad inter-wobble all round. Doppio Soz. If its any consolation am having Style&Error redesigned, and its taking forever. Got an errant programer who’s off in Budapest at mo’, doing other stuff. Right Karoli? “Come on Agent K. Come in agent K?! Am loosing my edge over here..” Earlier, in desperation, I stuck an image of a blouse from John Lewis up, tucked under some vintage Roxy Music live footage. This isnt really helping. So thought would try a bit harder not to alienate everyone, by actaully putting up images from what was the best show I saw in Londn, Milan or Paris. Haider Ackermman’s debut as Creative Director of Berluti.
Berluti AW17 Double breasted overcoat with simple knit, narrowed shorter pants and boots. The latter two element went throughout the collection as an anchor.
It was a trully brilliant menswear show. A proper spectacle too, with Bryan&Tilda, Usher<?> and Peter&Olga. More notes on those luminaries later, when get a mo. Here’s some more of Haiders new Berluti. Deserves its own post, but for now just gonna blend it with my apology. And some music.
Here’s Bryan and the boys..
Why was ths Berluti show so good? Certainly needs its own post, but will throw this down roughly now. Even the way it was cast and directed was cool and without obvious order or fact was a prevaling collection by one mind: different models came out with different gaits and different expressions as different speed. It was like they were characters perhaps. The clothes were unstyled in a similar way. Effortless. Luxe-flourishes in places, but its wasnt like these blokes were trying- they looked good, but in an effortless way- a cliche to say, but thats what it comes down to. Loved the look of this stuff. It wasnt like there was no fancy, or unsual gear. There was, but its wasnt the main even. Cool was the main event.
Some more notes on Berluti AW17 (yeah, yeah)
More totally wearable outwear from AW17 Belruti by Haider. Gwan Haider..
Meanwhile, being far less wearable, am sourcing that leopard Temperly blouse for John Lewis today (click). Blinding value, no? Super busy with work and stuff, but simply gotta get self into the JohnLewis and this look. For use under tailoring, largely, right? Its not actually cross dressing, is it?
Somerset by Temperly for John Lewis ruffle shirt/blouse, £69
Back to my building site issues, cant really reel Karoli in or give him hard time as he’ll just shut all my tech down. Eastern Eurpean builders are a prevaling thing, except this ones not jsut lift the site untended, he’s left the country. They’ve got you over a barrell though these tech-nerds nowawards. #Powerless. A new look and new appraoch is coming though. Honestly. But then again, you’ve heard this shit before… Come on Karoli, help a man out. This bloody site’s a decade old. People need the new. Even old people. Gimme a remake/remodel. Regards the title, did have short banter with Bryan the other day post Berluti show. Will update with that too. Do hang on please, its gonna me almost worth it. Meanwhile, better Listen to my new companion Doug Hream to retain some interest. Badly diggin’ Doug’s scene…tek it Doug..
Morning Style Merchants. The new, slightly renamed (for various reasons not madly clear) London Fashion Week:Men’s starts now (click). Well, last night if you count Vivienne’s little bash at Quo Vardis. She’s back in London showig mens for the first time in ages, and its the biggest story in catwalk menswear scene, am sure. Feel like bout to get Westwood emersed. Keeping it well pagan as a result, and pleased with todays Porridge Face (click) courtesty of Walters is in keeping with that mood. A theme amply re-enfored last night by the charming Andreas Kronthaler, Creative Diretor/Head of Design/Somethin Maj’ at VW.
Andreas slipped on his waffle shawl collar OC for the shot I took to go with the crown, but V.W.’s Austrian Stylist, Sabrina, slipped by and popped zi collar to up quotient. Shawl poppage seems to be a theme, nein?
Porridge Face No.103, from the series Porridge Faces by Jake Walters.
Gotta go do some style stuff, not to mention zi column. Hi Maria…
Morning Style Mongers. When you ask for guidance, sometimes, the stylistic universe helps you out. Sometimes. This sunlight boot demo made it a doddle for me to go Harness over Jodhpur on a Saint Laurent level later on this very day (click).Was running through London Fields yesterday straight past young photograher Matt Tortolano who was busting a simple, classic rock’n’roll leather biker/jeans flex to great effect. His Saint Laurent Harness boot with a bit of true-grit fatigue looked wicked with his narrow, quite faded Nudie jeans. More, more faded denim, as am petisioning my editor.I also kept banging on about, he’s kept the thing pretty strichtly The Velevet Underground, with a Topman rib polo/turtle neck for a modecium of warmth and a frisson of colour. Tortolano also working some interesting custmosed jewellery, too.
Matt told me that the signet he updated inserting his own Masonic stone. Didnt strike me as on the square, but looks can be deceptive. Double simple, and double effective, the wear on the All Saints leather and the boots made his flex funtion properly, and that it fitted. Tortolano’s boots were making it for me, as he strutted down that cycle path bit by the recycling bins. His bins are of course classic Wayfarers by Ray Ban. Surely some think gloves and a nice fur hat woudl have helped gainst the cold though, darlink? The youth know best perhaps.
PS. Do seem compelled to call things chocolate when live in the stance over the years- this is more like Burgundy as Matt mentions. Am a colour pillock.
Evening Style Mongers. Wishing all you lot double-well. This time last year I was on a confused aeroplane flight to Mexico. Highs & lows streamed through my head & heart and I had pretty much no idea what they were about. They’ve all but gone now. “In a mad world it always seems simpler to obey”* my newly begun novel just told me. Roger that, G. Will see how seems fit to implement that diktat in coming 12 months. Goodbye 2016. You’ve been a tough, but a significant one. I’ve got into this significant sounding one below by listening to the “Greeneland” themed Words&Music (click) on Radio3. Stick on Chico and the boys.. Stick it!
Goodbye 2016, its been emotional.
Talking of toughies, just not sure which way to go with these boots. Still. Thought would have this wrapped up by now, but its gone to the line. Which pair of black Saint Laurents is the question? ‘Jodhpur‘ of ‘Harness‘? Gotta make a call and drag self down to Vogue Fabrics Dalston, to say hello to Lyall in time for the end. Or stay in.
Jodhpur (click) is more wearable, insertable, streamlined, and practical. With Jodhpur ankle strap deets and lower heel, (and gotta love the crazy naused up ‘lexic-spelling shit, no?). Harness (click) is a higher and more Cuban heeled (which am strongly digging), same shape last but with side zip and promient styrup thingy. Just had another try on and simply cannot decide. Its gonna largey be a denim flex with these, surely. Or is it it? Maybe the Jodhpur slips into a tailored scneraio easier. Thats the the ishew right there. But love the additional agro’/bondage quotient ya get off Harness, though am already over the line on midlife crisis level, so trying to be mindful, right? Hate to make self look like some sort of pillock. That, would be awful. Having to do the whole Saint Laurent showcase on my new sheepskin rug for fear of scuffing the soles. Proper busy scene here a Lavinia Villa tonight.
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While we’re talking soles (and even of choices), this below is Dave singing Lady Grinning Soul. So many Bowie greats one could choose to sign off the year of his death, but always loved this one so, so dearly, so gonna obey it. Tried to actually occupy the song for a while. Bit silly. Didn’t work. Have stopped all that caper now. Life’s so much easier as result.
<some sort of other relevant comment>
Has Dave’s death changed stuff? He was an old-ish guy, still creating, who had to pass. Not sure how feel bout this, but the situation has made Bowie’s visibility/popularity balloon for an entire 12 months. Without being a snob (actaully being a massive snob, as it goes) I’m not sure many of the people referencing Dave this last 12 months actaully listen to his albums, as it were. Yet he’s the mast to the big old “2016 what a terrible year” raft of banter/group-opinion that people are floating on socially. Thoughts go out to Iman and his family as there’s no doubt they’re missing him the most of all.
David & Iman
People are banging on about the great celebrity death toll of 2016. Yes, there’s a big old list, but a far shorter list of other stuff to talk bout in their heads. Its the thing to say right now. G’wan the crowd consciousness. “2016, you can just do one!” someone Insta-tweeted. Yeah 2016! Thats told you. Probably cos we’re all glued to Instagram that it seems so double significant. Maybe its a good year to die in. Pals of mine discussing that it does seem that many of the ‘left-leaning’ have passed, and in this right-skewed vista we’re occupying, it feels far worse as a result. Could well be part of it, no?
Personnaly 2016 was a tough yet brilliant year in many ways, and best of all with almost no regrets. Not none, but few. Thats all I can wish for the next one, *gulps*.
Happy New Year you lot. Peace.
* Our Man In Havana by Graham Greene
PS. This is one of the most amusing images of 2016. Maybe one had to be there, but it captures the moment (at Sali Hughes’ second book launch) immediately before Michaels Hogan and Holden could possibly be about to meet in the real world, and not in as mistaken identifies on social media, as had happened, much to our hilarity. Really needs a speach/thought bubble above Holdens head for maximum mirth.
An already lubricated Hogan enjoys banter at Sali Hughes Pretty Iconic book launch, while Holden looks on..<laughing now Hogan, but just wait till Gary Kemps Blitz Club anecdote road show makes its way round to you..>