SNEAKY SOUL

Morning Style Merchants. Andy* had it so right when he (apparently) talked about the journey to the party being the best bit by far. Slipped into Soho late last night on a covert research mission. 14 minutes from E5-W1, Clapton to Dean Street, with E2-E4 (click) doing its level best to get the atmos’ going. Too, too exciting. These two below are by Aubercy (click),  a Parisian shoe marque who appear to call themselves ‘Souliers‘. I am don’t know nearly enough about them, but an esteemed, super-sophis’ client has drawn my attention to their ‘Sneaker’ collection. I know they’ve got sole. If they didn’t they wouldn’t be in here.

Aubery ‘Sneakers’.

I shall be immersing self in the Soulier scene and what is possible. Double refined, unusual trainer  hybrids is what these guys are. There’s more pictures at the end. Meanwhile, the exit from Soho back the Clapton Village was as/if not more exhilarating than entry, with bright blue and bright pink skies at dawn looking insane, with spires and blocks and angles kicking off in all manner of provocative ways. Shocking stuff. Makes one wonder why not doing that every morning. To keep the momentum going this morning, ’bout to cycle the Pash’ Sov’ Rod’ to London Fields cycles to get it re-illuminated, spoked, tuned and generally tweaked. I’ll run around the borough for a bit then back, in two out of three parts of a triathlon-(did the swim yest’, so effectively a drawn out affair that include night driving as additional element). The day is set get steadily more industrially glamourous from there, first via the Luxury Space Station that is The Harrods. Doing a floor walk, right? Then taking Matey off the Telly to my boys at Thom Sweeney. Also stopping off via Amies to view their excellent, new ‘Signature Bespoke’ service (more on that later as its so, so good). Later the Italian Ambassadors up to something on Grosvenor Square, which simply must slip through, hoping to take my most highly ranking of all Editors along with me. No messing.

Soul Love by Dave from Rise and Fall of Z.Stardust.

Then Jason Basmajian, (and Massey Inc) at Gieves are doing something with The Vitale Barberis Canonico crew at their gaff on The Row. Its black tie and ting, so better pull das finger out. Whats not to report on later in week? Just hope its not all about the journey again, and get to tell ya what actually went down. Might just take a series of photos and see if can capture something, journo style. Nothings gonna top the start of this one though, (so it is all effectively down hill from now on). Just kidding. Cant wait.

Stubbs out in The Metropolis.

* Warhol.

PS. This is Dave doing Andy. Quite interesting, no? Has he had his mouth glued into position?

Need a little space. Reckon this is enough?

Bunch of trois-soles.

sole pour Rupesh…


MANILA D’ANCRE

Afternoon Style Militants. It’s been militant, no? ‘Mili-good’ though. Between runnings on Thursday, between Colony Grill at Beaumont and The Hermes press prezza, I had to stop, dial this up. Had to. And then I started to dance, without wearing no seatbelts.

Hermes new Chain d’Ancre print. Ni, ni, ni.

It’s ancre’d everything ever since. Approximately. Play it. You’ll remember it.

If you can be bothered to hang on, will update on other matters when can.

Stubbs out.

PS. Fashion naysayers chatting bout Tautz runway stuff, don’t you get how this works yet? A runway show is like saying “This is what we’ve been thinking about, yeah? (Then now buy our normal stuff, right?)”. Its pretty straight forward really. E.Tautz jumpers and jeans and ties and chinos and outer-vear is good, see?

TAUTZ ON DUKE STREET

Morning Style Mongers. Visited the new E.Tautz (click) shop on Duke Street last week in hideous rain. The shop and product was excellent and inspiring by contrast. Over the next twelve hours the rain stopped and Summer came back for a brief two day sojourn. I could not put the ‘hedo-brakes’ on till the early hours of Saturday morning such as the buoyancy of mood this solicited, hence the lack of comment on here. Meanwhile at Patrick E. Grants Tautz shop, things were looking very good indeed, with much fine ceramics and mid century Scando-rosewood furniture to enjoy. Its a large, simple and well designed ’space’, as they say. There was biscuits, tea, conversation and clothes too.

Grant ensconced in ceramics.

Patrick too was buoyant, a man like him is unaffected by precipitation et al. He was particularly pleased with a triptych of eminent moustaches that featured in The Guardian that day. T.Selleck, B.Pitt and, yes, P.Grant. Come to think of it, does Pitt really make the grade there? As we ate a packet of chocolate biscuits, dark, Grant and I discussed how many miles you had to swim to burn one single biscuit off. It is very many. Far more efficient biscuit balancing is achieved by the feat Grant just undertook cycling from Newcastle to London, a distance of 310 miles, in 23 hours on a Trek bicycle. That’d certainly help the Derby Deficit.

E.Titz typo correction by dyslexic sign-writer with palette, do (click) for Mr.Tourettes

Was struck by so much product in the shop. Patricks putting his perennially brilliant pieces commissioned/curated for Tautz from all over the British Isles in the shop, as well as the directional E.Tautz line, (click) for AW14 show. Wide legs chino-pants are firm favourite of trendy style commentators and non-trendys alike, also wide leg jeans. They are good. Was impressed by suiting from bout £800 for two piece. Really lovely cloths, as you’d expect, and handsome, proper lapels and shoulder lines. MTM versions from £1,250-3000. PG’s gonna do MTM shirts from £220. The sort of straight up quality and properness you get from this shop is encapsulated in this pair of RAF Barathea classic trousers “They’re jeans for those who dont want to wear denim” Patrick tells me. They’re a very lovely mannish item. Don’t want to distract from shop news with the mainline stuff, but its in the mix too.

Tautz Parka.

Shetland knits from Jameson of Stetland (£195) are bang on. Bang, on. The lightweight parka are wicked (click) in Loro Piana Storm System (£895). Nearly took one to combat da rain. Always back to the rain. There’s much good outer-action, so visit. Ties are the best you can get in the world, as I spend much, much time trying to say in The HTSI.

AW14 mainline.

Don’t hold ya breath for next episode on here. It was a good one to participate in but dunno how would work in retrospect. From Chatty Man Dem TV show later on that very rainy day, through much Soho/Mayfair cavorting and Lowry bashing, to 34 on Audley with Mingcorp, and eventually to Vogue Fabrics for a quiet cocktail on das Halloween. I dont do that dressing up lark, as you know, so nothing much to report there, right? Regardless,  too, too under das cosh to give story its due right now. Might give you some music to keep ya going if you’re good chaps, seen?

Stubbs out in The Metropolis.

PS. Didnt even attempt a ‘Moustachess of Duke Street’ based pun. Must be slipping…

AW14 mainline.



MANUEL’S MOVE

Evening Style Merchants. Having been brought to my attention by fellow crew member, The Wrong Writer (click), I’ve been completely sucked into Manuel Göttsching’s E2-E4 ever since. I’ve got myself immersed in it. You’ll recognise the little two state riff from Sueno Latino’s Sueno Latino (click)* who sampled it in 1989.

E2-E4.

The electronic album E2-E4 is all about immersion and disappearing into the world Göttsching imagined/created. It has different sections, sort of tracks, that all lead into each other. All 59 minutes of it. His 1984 minimalist sound painting is exotic and edgy. It’s glamourous and stark. It dawned on me the chess move E2-E4 is a representation of the riff, possibly. Its powerful stuff regardless.

The track subtly builds and shifts and Göttsching deftly adds and melds different soundscapes and nuances. The riff remains throughout.  Göttsching’s an electric guitarist who also plays keyboards. He was bang ahead of much House music with this anticipation-heightening, work. I’m also enjoying Manuels look back in the Eighties. The CD inner cover has a charming picture of him and is apparently inscribed, with the message  ”From Berlin, with love, Manuel”. Dead nice, nein?

Aus Berlin, mit Liebe. Kragen schonmal.

The ‘piece’ is doppel-wicked. Been listening to it pretty, pretty solidly. Am gonna buy a cache of them and bestow them on pals who will also love it. This is almost instead of tackling work. It’s not a sound for everyone, so don’t hold your breath if you’re reading this some of you. I should have been working all week instead of trancing out on various moments, largely on buses. I’ll get mine in time am sure. Just a straight forward move. Thats all thats required tomorrow. What could go wrong? E5-E8** perhaps, for yet more immersion…

Nice one for this Holden.

Stubbs out.

* You really should see the styling of the Sueno Latino video. Gonna get a leather flying bodkin later this week from Mr.Porter.

** Lower Clapton to London Fields Lido.



ALPHA PILLOCKS

Afternoon Style Mongers. Admit was riveted to The Apprentice the other night. The whole thing. Much appeal comes from watching an old Cockney Herbert hustler be utterly vile, blunt and militant to a phalanx of pillocks. What’s not to love there? Other questions are thrown up. Where do they recruit such idiots from? Have the competitors never seen how badly predecessors came over, or did they think that was perhaps positive? This is one TV production stitch-up am in approval of. Its almost a public service exposure of this level of mug-ishness. Their lingua franca is like a point by point guide of what not to say anywhere, never mind in business. There are other important errors flagged up, not least in the sartorial department.

Robert Goodwink

Pocket square ubiquity has reached epidemic pedestrian levels, and this joker-showcase proves it. If they’re banging them out in Burton/Topman and this lot are snapping them up, its time to move on, no? This lot seem to favour big sateen affairs deployed in manner of napkins on a Newport wedding dinner table setting. Am guilty of pushing pocket fancies myself, big time, and I’ll even drop one now and then, but its time to swerve the pocket flourish on whole, or drop altogether, right? At least Bobby G didn’t do both buttons up, like Bullet Cartwright below, who got the first bullet from Suralan. Full-buttoning is the mark of the sartorial savage.

Chiles Cartwright.

Cartwright’s solid-pewter suit could not save him from the show’s signature seat-belted exit. Hate the seat belt scenes. Back seat seat-belts are totes humiliating. I’d refuse on this element alone. They should sack all full buttoning belt merchants in episode one and have done. “Your poor huddled masses, let’s club ‘em to death and get it over with and just dump ‘em on the boulevard” to quote dearest Lou.

Caviar Bolognaro.

Behold the house of Windsor. Here’s the rule on Windsor knots: They are never okay. They’re so, so white goods-retail-management-Nokia-ringtone-esque. No offence the John Lewis Massive, but am talking bout you.

Steven Umgowa.

Then there’s tie bars: Tie hardware of choice for a nation of Alpha-bellends. I’ve got couple. I wore them ’bout 12 years ago. I hold my hands up, but that was before most style men had even got their head round wearing tailoring, let alone fabrics that weren’t grey/navy wool. If anyone wants my tie bars they need to write me a nice Haiku poem about why Madmen is fuckery for dullards, send a SAE and they can have ‘em. More Windsor from the insane-Canadian Steven, who I actually liked for being both so mental and camp at same time: Hil-fucking-aire.

Solero Acupuncture.

The Apprentice ties are all made from glistening sateen effect cast aluminium, like some sort of Jeff Koon’s pieces, and demonstrate quite explicitly what I was banging on about with the help of Patrick Grant and his E.Tautz ties in HowToSpunkIt last Friday (click). Shiny, silky ties are for people who would go on The Apprentice. Case rested.

Daniel Mango-Half -Sugar Lassi.

Dan’s double-buttoned and he hasn’t fastened his tie properly to the top. Does it matter? Prob’ not. But a tie is a statement of discipline. Its forcing the fabric to do what you want and to stay put against its will, demonstrating man’s mastery over it. Lassi is slipping. These men are all getting caught slipping on TV. Maybe they never weren’t slipping. Who knows,  but there’s more stuff that’s so wrong. I could go on. But I’ve simply gotta go out and meet a Windsor knot about a new dishwasher.

Stubbs out.

PS. Matching napkin to tie isn’t the dapper ticket either. As for belts with suits, what more can I say but “have you been to a Harvester before?”

Jimmy Hill.