AMI BLEU

Morning Style Mongers. Visited new Ami shop on Duke last week (click). Loved it. Met Alexandre Mattusi, Founder man dem. Liked his casual confident way a lot and his shop and collection were looking bang on. I reported on it, first, in my Sharpener column in The FT H.T.S.I. bout month ago (click). Then it didn’t open. How Parisian. Now it has, go there, mon ami. Honestly. Affordable, chic, unfussy, cool. Likey interior too. Big, open, bright, without being horrid and pared down. Got not proper time for this as impaled on all manner of deadline fuckery  Regardless/largely because: took ‘Little Fella Off The Telly’ there the very next day and dropped a ‘bag of sand’* on him/it, there and then. Thats what you call a ‘money vote’, mon Ami.

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 Painted Parquet floor. A signature Ami thing, with diff’ paint in each shop.

Really digging the mannequin-less interior. It was a cafe called <forgot>, but now is re-opened up with loads of smashing, considered textures and colour. Not got time to go into it now,  but will. Also liked the easy clothes style a fair old bit <did I say that already?>.  This khaki cotton drill trench was dead good. Just look how the Parisian man is dropping it in London.

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Alexandre Mattusi in Ami, Duke Street.

All this chatting bout Paris, cafes, trenches and stuff caused me to talk to Alexandre bout The Style Council Cafe Bleu debut album, 1983. Two British men (or four, depending how you count it) dropping it all over the place, and Paris. Loved that album on so many levels (even tho has some right pony tracks on B-side. Rapping Paul! Was that really wise?). Anyway, as said, gonna put more up later, this is a just a sketch, but one can’t stand still Monday to Monday, can one? Thats not a stance, thats a style capitulation, right? anyway, music. I’m picking this number for now, if my silly, battered soul can take it. Weller sang it too, first, but Trace laid the lyrics down on the album. Too, too much. Everybody, here’s introducing Tracey Thorn and T.S.C. (Gulps…) The Paris Match.

Obvs theres move clothes and sounds to come, right, but I’ve got people chasing me down. Probably deservedly. He’s some cursory stuff to get the mood over a bit <have added since>. When I visited next day met a crew of very warm, easy, chic staff, from Italy, Portugal, France, and even a token Brit. Like them. Is important to have right peoples.

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 Some Ami SS16 stuff.

Some more upbeat sounds from the album Cafe Bleu are below. Likey?

Headstart for Happiness by T.S.C from Cafe Bleu, also.

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Ami interiors are by Studio KO, no relation to Karla Otto, who do the PR!

<Do we need more garms in here or do you lot get it?>

Stubbs out (in the untarnished Metropolis).

NB. Mick Talbot, off of T.S.C,, (also formerly of the Merton Parkas) went to same school as my Dad. Rutlish. South Sides. 

PS. Am so, so pleased to find am now at liberty to tread the boulevard floor without fear of ever seeing the deranged, estranged fashion Ex once more. The style gods have smiled on me and deported her circumstantially to Los Angeles. Now thats what I call a headstart for happiness. 

* Grand, silly.

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A.M.&T.S. in Ami changing rooms.

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Some more Ami SS16 stuff. 

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T.S.C, Paris. 1983.

SPRING SESSION A COMMENCE

Morning Style Mongers. No time for too much proper style & thing right now, but just these tunes to mark the arrival of Spring, right? Spring is in session. Spring is in session. Desert chic a g’wan.

Saw this Balmain jacket back in the winter and thought it was wicked then. It is, and plan to give it a go, somehow. Urban desert safari is how to take the look. Right? Nice loafers, bit of jewellery bit of tan: To be paired with general flash summer bits/bins and maybe a flamboyant scarf, Yves style.  Seen?

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Balmain desert kimono SS16

Would probably swerve the gladiator sandals for most occasions, though. Whats good bout desert field jackets or shirts is their straight up masculinity, a great foil to the horrid, lurid tourist vista of garms on viddies when travelling. Sports wear travel antidote, also. Best not nause it, tho.

Basically, the desert safari look’s all about field jackets. When have they not been good, mind? There’s a ton of ‘em around for SS16. Maybe means something deserty. C.P. used to do the best field jackets. Not so this season. But keeping the faith. Off to see them later. Big hopes…This is Bottega

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Bottega Venetta SS16 ‘haze’ gaberdine field jacket.

Is actually good. Had the suede on on Freddie Hunt and it looked double good. Might reveal that later, illegally.. Haze suede, ffs. Very gorg’. Lets see if anyone even notices that have published the shot? Sweeney chinos, TAG Heuer Hunt kettle, Smedders as standard, and John Lobb boots. There- there’s some style for you right there.

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Freddie in BV.

Seeing two of my films star bods this week, probably both today, so shouldn’t be doing this, should be doing them. That said. its not all been work

Stubbs out.

PS. Kimono chic is also gonna be a thing, but one thing at time. For now dig desert and the music team style….

PPS. Fabian track comes courtesy of The Dub Cod. Shout out Micky Richards.

Balmain kimono shirt

Balmain kimono desert safari thing shot back some point in the miserable winter. And wasn’t it a right shitter this time round?

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Belstaff Goat Skin field jacket SS16

NEW LIFE/OLD TOWN

Morning Style Mongers. Hoping all is reasonable in your scenes. Gone back to see The Madre. Taking her key to her old house to hand over the new people/owners. End of an era don’t really cover it, to be honest. Madre is okay though. Other stuff to think bout now. Been doing some final ‘Loom-Looting. Don’s tankard below for example. 

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Donald Frederick Stubbs’ tankard.

There’s other bits, will update, but for now.. Been feeling this tune right now. You lot? Now Seymour put the Aux into the Aero, music scene all change. Flying down the M4 to this sort of thing now. What do to with multiple wads of battered CDs, one frets. 

<insert some style stuff>

Sister Julie has cleared the Madres yard of all her, and Dons, gear. A relatively tough job on a couple of levels. I just bowl in for guest appearance and do some edited heirloom pilfering. Quite bad. Is life though. Meanwhile, looking at new yards in the Clapton manor. Is the next phase. Too exciting. 

Stubbs out.

PS. Saw my Cockney/Buddhist contingency over weekend. Now have new Dub CD as souvenir.

PSS. Fuckers went to see Lee Scratch Perry for his 80th without inviting me, though.

 

 

 

IN THE POUND/IN THE PINES

Morning Style Mongers. Left The Aero on a single yella on my road last night before over cooking plaice for Holden at Lavinia Villa. Just dutifully went to move at 8.28am, before the 8.30am parking zone kicks in. Saab gone gone. They’ve moved hours to 6.30am and my car with it. Didnt tell no mans. They’ve stuck it in the pound. In the pound. In the pound. Where the sun don’t ever shine… (Just off Mare Street, as it goes). 

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 Hackney: In the pound/in the pines.

Which, by google, just discovered isn’t the lyrics to Where Did You Sleep Last Night, by Leadbelly. Are actually in the pines, in the pines… ffs. All these years been thinking that wrong. Just goes to show. You think you know something…wonder what else I could have wrong? Talking of wrong: Totes hating at the borough for choring my car from my own road. Could have called man off my permit and said “you’ve got a ticket, come move it”, but no, went and took it to other side of manor and fined me. Fuckers. Am legit permit guy, ffs! Stop bleeding your people for the sake if it. Will get revenge. At some point. Trust. Meanwhile in The Middle…

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 Paul Smith mainline AW16 houndstooth check overcoat. Wicked, roomy cut. Diggin’ strongly.

So, had to retrieve said Aero  (£200 down) before even going to The Middle for apts at Anderson&Sheppard (suit fitting), Paul Smith (AW16 press day), Joe Mills (cut&blowie).. all those sort of guys <this count as style content, right?>.

This is a heavyweight song though, no? Nirvana made it famous in popular culture doing it for Unplugged. Wicked base on this. Leadbelly himself is dragging us through the misery of it all after the dull signature. This is looking like it might well be a no-style-style post <maybe?>. Maybe would have been better to use a Patti lyric? 

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 For Anderson&Sheppard D.B. 3P lounge suit in Holland & Sherry 753107 Biscuit/Fawn Flannel (9oz)

Its lightweight fabric though, no? Having three piece double breasted suit made by Leon (coat maker) & MrMalone (trouser maker) at Anderson&Sheppard in this gorgeous drapey flannel, see above. Its shaping up like tailored, draped tailored knitwear ensemble. Very luxe. Its timeless and think gonna be gorgeous. Nice long unstructured coat with soft chest, large high peak lapels. Its special looking, non-fashion but super chic tonal affair. Relatively subtle. Pants have deep double pleats. are gonna be properly spesh. These are the dark horn matt buttons going for and can see the chic lining  in shot too. <this is now is style coverage, right?>

“Went looking for you, are you gone, gone..?” 

“Down at the car pound, it was so dismal…..”

 

Really must drop some proper style stuff upon this place shortly. Plenty going on, but none that fits this brief. <tried to insert, did it hurt?>

Stubbs out.

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Got the horn (shoe), in the fitting room, in the fitting room, where sun don’t ever shine..

A&S have best/worst fitting rooms with special 360 degree arrangement. Elegant, correct and entirely truthful/revealing. Literally thought to self, who’s the old fucker getting underdressed in jeans in the corridor,,..it was aye, sadly…trick of the mirror/real life. Brought Polo necks and proper shoes for fitting, like a non-savage should do.

Tek it Lead…

PS. Also liked this giant seersucker granddad shirt from Sir Smithy, too.

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Smudgers giant seersucker shirt.

CROSS KETTLING – FOR THE DUCHESS

Morning Style Mongers. Am out in action in Zi Bazel doing Kettle-Fest 2016. No time for much more than to post this up. Wrote it for friend/Editor Caragh McKay AKA The Duchess of Dundee, who was such a creative, bold & chic editor know she would have damn well commissioned this if she could and ran it, somehow, in serious broadsheet. Its only getting publicly published here, now. Big shout out to The Duchess this morning from the Watch Citadel- BaselWorld! Images are randoms and from this trip, bar the Mitre. Telegraph Time is out Saturday/Tomozza, Caragh’s last issue. Not see it yet, but bet its killing it.  <to insert watch images>

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High End accessory scene in the Basel this week

CROSS KETTLING 

I’m in an almost un-findable public house located in Farringdon’s Hattons Garden district. Ye Olde Mitre Tavern is a pleasant and innocuous looking affair with window boxes and barrels outside as tables, yet it’s also harbours a secretive, burgeoning underground scene. I’m waiting to meet up with on of its unofficial founders and a leading protagonist. My contact in The Garden has recently informed me in hushed tones about a new luxury/gender-blurring stylistic cult. ‘Cross-Kettling’, as its known by some, is far from a recognised ‘thing’. Its what one might call niche interest, but the spectacle of a collection of serious power mongers, esteemed professionals and overtly Alpha males getting together under a common banner of the love of fine ladies watches is not to be ignored. 

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 Ye Old Mitre-In The Garden.

I’m waiting for Jonny. Ex British Paratrooper special forces, half Londoner/half Afghani. A surprisingly well groomed, tanned and engaging, triangularly built chap who is now a fitness trainer/close personal protection unit combined. He also appears to have one glass eye. There’s not the only bit of honed crystal he’s sporting. Once securing his gin&tonic he wastes no time in explaining how he picked up a taste for feminine horologic finery on missions in the Middle East. “You’ve gotta have a get out of jail kettle when you’re on you’re out own in operation. Right? It needs to be properly flash. And it needs to have plenty of ice.” He explains earnestly, about the buy-out potential of a prestige watch when in need of emergency negotiations, while at the same time making no small gesture of letting me see me his remarkable de Grisogono Grappolo amber hued composition of complex orange sapphire of various sizes. Its like a rare peony fashioned in stones that jangles very subtly when he gesticulates. Its working very well juxtaposed with Jonnys Moncler track suit and highly developed forearm.

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“Crossing the Jordon Iraq boarder, early Naughties, I had minimal kit and only some small ‘work’ we’d taken from the last job.” He goes on to explain there was no male watch in the haul inventory, and so he ended up with a rare Reine de Naples Breguet piece on his wrist as his only buy out option. That night past without challenge, however Jonny’s penchant for ultra feminine watches was whetted.

Before I can process this unusual scene, he introduces me to two men at the far end of the bar. Apparently executives of mid and late fifties are who are drinking pints, and greet Jonny warmly on approach.

One is clearly in Savile Row made three-piece and G.J.Cleverly shoes, but straight off I notice he’s also wearing a neat and striking La Mini D De Dior with black dial, diamond bezel and bronze leather strap. His older, and portly companion is also suited but wearing an extraordinary piece which I think appears to be a Bulgari Diva in yellow gold set with pale pink and blue stones. There’s no time to dwell on the model in question, as more men arrive and need greeting.

Jonny is off, welcoming them to the fold. I am left with Lionel Dior at the bar. He seems relaxed after Jonnys intro and quickly explains how his involvement. He’d tried his wife’s Hermes Double Tour Chain d’Ancre while on holiday and found its fine feminine lines somewhat compelling. The next thing he’s bidding for cocktail watches on ebay. Which in turn brought him to The Garden scene. Another chap joins and it’s the same story. He started with a modest 70s men’s Cartier Tank de Must, then next thing he’s trying on Baignoires down Bond Street and teaming them with Love bracelets while claiming they’re for his wife. He’s remarks that he is now single.

As the Mitre fills, I’m spotting more and more fine women’s watches. Young men in separate jackets and chinos topped off with relatively discreet, Vuitton Emprise 23mm. I even clock one chap wearing a double ironical Chanel Boyfriend watch.

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According to H.Moser.

More businessmen, professional looking lawyers types are joined by rugged and non-business looking fellas, yet all are talking on equal terms about their latest fancy and what they’re all wearing. The only female in the gaff is the barmaid. The more masculine and straight the man and job it seems, the more fem the watch. I meet one chap who tells me about ‘double wristing’. As it’s all about more dainty pieces, no one needs to know if you don’t want them too. So it seems many top end execs/CEO/power brokers practice wearing one standardly masculine large men’s watch on the left wrist, plus a second hidden on the right one. To be revealed with in more ‘agreeable’ company.

These high power business men who are turning to fine woman’s watches a way to express their more sensitive and delicate natures, without dropping the carapace of the pinstripe three piece, shirt and tie.

The rise of unstructured tailoring and the abandonment of the suit a general uniform has seen further relaxing and softening of the rules of engagement for business, however in many jobs its simple not acceptable. It seems their need to express a gentleness and sensitivity has simple come out in other ways. For this select group it’s via cross-gender fine horologic passion.

They come together to socialise, under a common love, to show off, relax forget the pressures of modern Alphaism and talk women’s watches without inhibition. When an elder Gent walks in replete with bowler hat and brolly, while accepting his usual glass or Sangiovese handed to him by Jonny he exposes his baby pink Boucheron parrot watch set with pink and white stones, I’m reminded of Kenny Everett’s ‘Mr Angry’ ranting cross-dress-only-from-behind only character. His demeanour is one of the most relaxed in their place yet with clipped annunciation. He laughs at my astonishment as he brandishes his wrist parrot and confides in me a surprising turn of phrase “of course we all rebelled in the end. It was inevitable. This entire watch caper has been a enormous wind up, dont ya know?”

Stubbs out

<to insert watch images>