Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

LONDON K WHOLE

Tuesday, January 27th, 2015

Morning Style Merchants. Seems suitably incongruous to banter briefly bout London Collections: Men, no? Best things presented were Kilgour, Dunhill, Gieves&Hawkes and E.Tautz, with a dash of Thom Sweeney. Not changing my record much? Why should I, it’s a killer little team, so nay-sayers simply step from me. This has been rattling bout in my out-box for a week so gonna fire it off, half baked, far from whole. You know the drill, no? Kilgour notes are below, the AW15 stuff is extremely interesting and very clever.

III

 Kilgour AW15 non-commersh, strictly non-sym’.

Kilgour is all about ultra contemporary tailoring, of course (click). You need to see the gear on to fully appreciated it. It all works, as it were. Will put some of the commercial collection up too. Also interesting was the ‘thread’ optic installation that Brandelli had installed, in line with the theme of this season. 

Autumn Winter 2015 image 1

The canapes were by Jean Michel Jarre.

Asymmetry was deftly explored and the new ‘K’ front design, where the panels suggest the outline of a K without making it a whole. A K hole, if you will. Go have a shufty, its one of the best style spectacles in London, bar nought. The shops a proper hoot, too, if you’re into your granite. 

Autumn Winter 2015 image 9

Kilgour overcoat AW15 from commercial collection.

The clothes are special too, via thought, effect and execution. Bless Carlo Brandelli for actually doing something like this, then being totally resolute bout it. Had a really funny row with him later at Marks Club that night in front of his wife, for sport/truth/clarity, I think. We were both in grey flannel suits, but thats where the synchronicity ended. I was busting pure immense fronted double-breasted, rope-shouldered Sexton. Carlo was being so modern he’ not only abolished buttons from his jacket, but had abandoned shirting and outlawed nipples completely. We were the Yin & Yang of charcoal grey flannel suits. At least we managed to accidentally synchronise a Tourette’s moment over Steve Reich, which was pleasant contrast to the clash of worlds/opinion (click). 

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Kilgour AW15 also, non-commersh.

I explained that without retro-styling pillocks (post modernists) like me parading bout, he would not have any context to be a Sartorial Smart Alec in. He wasnt having a bar of  it. I also pointed out to Carlo that he had a right result the company wasn’t called something beginning with a less tailoring compatible first letter, such as Quagmour. Serendipitous he agreed. Another rare moment. 

K hole

K-echo.

This is so far from reporting, but then I am far from being a reporter at mo’. More like a fact/image/price grinder right now than a journo per se. Trying to rectify, really I am. Then the chandelier needs polishing, and so it goes on..

Stubbs out.

AWKWARD DOME STANCE

Thursday, January 22nd, 2015


Morning Style Mongers. Back from Milan Menswear shows and Geneva S.I.G.H watch fete just in time to do Matey-Off-The-Telly for the National TV Awkwards last night, live from the Monglenium Dome. Didn’t come via cable car, as per tradition, as have done my back in, proper style. Lugging the 28kg Globe-Trotter case wouldn’t have done it any good at all. Had to come by car, then DLR, like a pedestrian (bailed from the Addi as the A12 was on melt-downs). So, so prefer an air-lift into work. It’s exhilarating, and a correct place to think and ‘be’, up there in the sky in the wind. Also like a nice blowy* at the mo’. Did I mention this? Regardless, this Richardsonesque pose was the most erect I’ve managed in days. Its not been ideal on an elegance level one iota. The whole ‘sartorial-singlet’ look been touting depends on a most erect stance. Hunched over and hobbling sunday in Milan I became a cross between Rigsby off-of Rising Damp (click) & Rab C. Nesbitt (click). Not a style pinnacle by long hobble. O’Leary’s look however, I was doppio gratified with. Hardy Amies Signature Bespoke suit in brown mohair. 

TS&DOL NTAs 2015

O’Leary in ‘Signature Bespoke’ Hardly Amies at The Dome. 

Matey O.T.T is in Emma Willis ivory silk pique shirt (which is properly lush), vintage dress studs (tiny gold/M.O.P numbers), and (my) Hermes bow tie. Want that back btw, Dermot

DOL in Hardy Amies NTAs 2015

On stage at the Dome.

Am rather impressed by Hardy Amies Signature Bespoke offer. Cut in bespoke manner with unique pattern by un-bettered Head-Cutter Will Adams, the thing gets turned around and assembled, off shore/off-Row as it were and comes back to Saviles with just the hand finishing and tweaks needing to be done. Handy, no? Bout £2,200 for a suit. Have tested this service several ways and its pretty damn good, if you’re asking me. Also, Adams is exemplary for the record.

DOL NTAS IV

Mohair/faux-wood.

Talking of Will, will get London Collections:Men and Milan tings reviewed this week, I swear down. Roger?

Stubbs (laid flat) out.

Note. The Blonde below is Exley; The Entourage glamour quotient on long legs. Joe Mills took the shot. Or maybe did the hair, and the wifey Dee took the shot. Cant remember. Was too busy trying not to stoop. Also note, there’s actually a little bloke behind Dermot, ‘operating’ him. Thats how this is all done, you know. Who knew?

*Blow-Dry.

PS. There is much ceiling based news, but so much plaster and yet so little thyme.

DOL entourage NTAs2015

Insert amusing caption here.

Backstage

Hard working back-side of stage last night.

CORNICE PATSY

Saturday, January 17th, 2015

Buono Sera Moda Diavolos. In Milan, doing the Moda Scappare, oi! So zera time to update on London Corlectionis. Excusi. Should really be looking after my family, but it appears my prioroties are in style&luxury. Shameful. This is my newly set cornice, though.

Cornice I

Cornice Pastiche.

Not dropping no shirt and ties stances this time around. None. Not one pocket snivel in my Globe-Trots did I pack. Didnt even bring enough polo necks to go round the tour. It’s all about sartorial singlet style, the way am channelling it. Might be wrongness, but am feel deep winter Ska suitable. Surely is not a book-able offence, even at my ripe age? Regardless of protocol, shout out to all you believers from the lesser known Eritrean/Muslim district of Milano. Yes, Horace! Keeping the faith. 

Some wicked safari suit action in this video. Couple of vests, but not enough…I’ll lay some style on thee when I can. Really I will. So, so much to talk about. But not just yet.

Stubbs out.

PS. Favourite style story of day involves one style&luxury luminary who’s case got lost on way over. This failed to scotch his lust for fitness, so he hit the gym first thing this morning  in his boxer shorts and Berluti hiking boots. The ones based on Gretta Garbos preferred ones. Too, too good a scene not to mention.

 

LONDON CORNECTIONS: SINGLET MANDEM

Tuesday, January 13th, 2015

Evening Style Fundamentalists. Styled myself into a bit of a corner for the mo’, so can’t update thee on what went off at LC:M from my perspective. Give me a tick and I’ll lay down what mattered to ‘our thing’ at LC:M.  Manolo’s new shoes were rather good. Some properly long ones, too.

Manolo Blahnik

Man in corner, Manolo Blahnik, returns from successful fishing expedition in buoyant form.

Long boots that is. Manolo was so well turned out, and a proper hoot to talk to. He actually did a ‘my bum looks big in this’ routine, and it was hilare. Look at his violet tweed check Anderson&Sheppard three piece from 1986, ffs. Lovely. Little bow tie, cashmere scarf… lovely outfit. Blahnik is a proper Style Monger. Remember what was chatting regarding disregarding elements of the over-done, frumpy, over exposed male finery for LCM? Like shirts and ties and pockets splatters and all those strapers*? Well, busted singlets on two days and didnt get arrested. Must be fine, right? 

TS sheepskin

The Vagrant Motson look.

This Sunday stance is a Zegna sheepskin trench, Piombo jacket, Sunspel Bretton singlet with Gucci suede retro snaffles with webbing, natch. Later in the week, last night at The GQ Hakkasan dinner I wasnt wearing a shirt either (click). Am living the singlet life.

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Cornice at “No.1 London” venue for Savile Row bash.

Having my cornices moulded and installed this week. And das ceiling Rose. Was going low key classic Victorian, but now seen this, having a re-think. Might go guilt. The address of this gaff is ‘No1., London’. Thats it. Exclusive, non?

Stubbs out.

*Straight-capers.

PS. From on-going GQ speech onslaught: Tracy Emin is a crashing-bore-hole**.  

** NB. Not rhyming slang for Andy Warhol.

NEW LONDON CODE

Thursday, January 8th, 2015

Evening/Morning Style Mongers. The London Collections:Men (click) klicks off for me tonight with The Rake magazine’s drinks bash at The Claridges. Always a chic thrill that one. So good it’s good not to drink in case ya miss a moment of clarity with a tailoring luminary, or similar. Then again, its a work do, and its good not to be too stiff with your colleagues, right? One might miss a claret and a moment of lunacy with fellow masthead dweller. “I’ve simply had nothing made” one remarked in shamed admission to me referring their tailoring style roster for the LC:M spell. A ghastly scene of abject sartorial neglect, indeed.   

Rake Magazine Claridge's Party 1

 A pattern emerging through Le Fumoir. Note matching, jacqurd La-de-da and beard.

But actually some sartorial neglect is what we could all do with fostering a touch. Am doppio fed up with my own hackneyed, over conscious use of shirt/Peckham/pocket snizzles. Have been for a while*. Gonna neglect all sorts of previously well maintained areas. Thinkin’ bout a couple of new, newish codes for the LC:M duration. Which is four days now btw style fiends. Four longish days. Might just loose my shirt or two, like an ageing, hirsute Pete Murphy

Boglioli dressging gown

The mind Bogliolis. Boglioli SS15

I’d drop a hat, but my hair’s just getting too, too big, and too blowy (in most places) to be wearing one. Am going big on blowing. Oh yes. Its all down to that Joe Mills of Joe & Co (clicky) and his Kevin Murphy Rough Rider. Man don’t cut. Man art-directs Barnets. I slip by his Soho drum for a mid-afternoon blowy when in The Metropolis at the mo’. Loving his work. Need a dryer in da Merc. Talking of which, I think this time, I might be most excited about working/rolling with Mr.Newton, my driver, for four days. The Mercedes Benz S Class  is a doppio-mod-luxe-boon to my LCM scene. Trust me, its got the lot, so much boot space is essentially a mobile lock-up for the duration. But its Mr.Newton that takes it up a notch further. He’s an exemplary driver and rolling concierge. Mr.Newton used to escort heads of state. Now he’s ferrying heads of hair in a state. HashtagClimbdown. At least his ride is fully operative.

Lincoln

LC:M Lincoln Continental.

Could don a dressing gown over the top of normal garb, in the back of the ride. Not so much like you not stepped out of a salon, but you’d stayed plotted at home under the dryer. Gowns been looking strong to me.

Dress Down Dress Down To Earth Fridays with Dave

Dress Gown To Earth Fridays.

 Maybe is the new way to wear tailoring. I’ve seen evidence. Or maybe just forget to  shirt up. I’m living the Singlet Life. When I can.

PMurphy190313

Deep Pete.

Starring out of the French windows in a singlet, it’s late late, now Max Rhinehardt has gone**, feel like if I was ever going to, I might just see a ghost tonight. Not drunk for a week. Not slept for one either. Maybe that’s it. Copy frenzy 2015 is O-Double-On. Its like writing is my actual job. It’s so calm in your head with no drink, no? No people, no engagements. Not seen a soul I know since NYsD. Cant last, but its so, so calm. Maybe it’s just the time of night. Or maybe it’s the time of man. 

Stubbs out.

PS. Just couldn’t help putting Joni on the end. Her codes’ so far from LC:M. Love Joni. 1970 feels somehow significant. Cant think why. And with that, I admit, I don’t know who I am, but am gonna get my soul relatively free, in style terms.

Perhaps camp out on the land with a nice dressing gown for example.

MP_Massimo_Piombo_012_1366.1366x2048

Yoghurt Gowney Junior. Massimo Piombo SS15

PPS. There used to be a night time, ‘cool’, cultural TV program called “01 For London” with Richard Jobson and Magenta Divine, I think. Actually liked it. This was before all this 0171/0181 caper came in. Then went. What happened to old Jobbo, eh? And Wall-eyed-Madge too?

*Almost peeved that have amassed hundreds of amazing ones. Still, are good for use on clients who’ve not caught up yet. And for actually blowing ones nose in abject jacquard luxury.

** From the BBC Radio 3 you understand. Not my bed chamber.