Archive for the ‘Tailorscape’ Category

ROW BEARD SHOW

Tuesday, October 8th, 2013

Morning Style Believers. I dont want to walk and talk about models, I just want to see their face. That’s all right. That’s all right. Dig a high caffeine/octane casting yesterday-think we’re all set. Five out of nine beards. Who’d have thought it? I dont mind them having beards, but I just want to see their face. Lads?

Nice little tune that boys, wonder if it could work as a …? Anyway. Cosh is in position high above the Row so we’re getting right under it.

Fabian in Gieves&Hawkes and Louboutin.

Arash in Hardy Amies

Lars in Richard James.

I dont want to walk and talk about Jesus, I just want to reference his beard. Thats all right. Thats all right. Stand up and be counted beard models.

Stubbs out.

CHITTLEBOROUGH & MORGAN

Thursday, October 3rd, 2013

Morning Bespoke Splinter-Cellers. Its all go. Did nine tailors on Tuesday and learnt quite a bit. Have seen seen a refined, willowy vest wearing fellow around The Row manor over the years. He is Joe Morgan out of Chittleborough & Morgan (click), and he is holding the hanger. The other fellow is not Chittleborough though. Chittleborough just retired. They both worked with Tommy Nutter and Edward Sexton at Nutters, back in the day. These days they’re downstairs at No.12.

I dont know loads about them, but I do like what I saw. The large, swooping lapels, low fastening and narrow waist make for distinctly elegant silhouette. They do a high pant with pleats too, almost venturing into Thin White Duke territory with that combo. Gonna use the dinner suit for next weeks event. This proportion looks smashing in pinstripe I note from their site.  Liked what they were doing using grey flannel, windowpane check and matching pinstripe pants too, see below. They also do a fabric buttonhole range which are quite sweet. Not gonna write word ’boutonnière’, because its for toss pots. What ever happened to that American bloke who used to walk about with a trilby on saying it the whole time? Jesus he was annoying. So glad he’s disappeared.

Mr.Morgan also showed me a navy seersucker suit that’s double stylish (click). For a full right up on C&M during various stages of the bespoke process, visit mateys ‘Permanantly in a tailors fitting room’ web site (click). In this episode even the cardboard patterns get to play a supporting role. Riveting stuff, but I’ve not got the time to post am afraid. If you have (click). The cut and thrust banter in the comments on that site is really something, like Newsnight for bespoke pundits.

Here’s a query. Ever considered bespoke body shapes, or at least custom ones? Thinking about bespoke and mens approach to it as highest format of style. Granted, it’s the loftiest level of menswear design in so many ways, and awfully effective for flattering and disguising mens forms. However, running trainers and a pull-up bar also have a very positive effect if used with a degree of comitment. See what I mean? Makes it all much easier for the tailors too, bless ‘em.  Went for fitting at Anderson&Sheppard. Mr.Hitchcock was on double buoyant form and it was special all round, but their fitting mirror makes me want to save up for a hair transplant. I look forward to a version with sleeves and trousers, call me old fashioned. I’d have taken some pictures, but to be honest, there’s enough pictures of middle age men in half made suits about already. We really need to address all of this. Going for a run in lycra to think about it. Oh, and to think about the show next week, natch.

Stubbs out.




TORSO OF THE DAY

Saturday, September 21st, 2013

Afternoon Style Mongers. Headless torso Number 2 in a series. This is just a holding shot for now, but couldnt resist sticking it up. Its The Balearic Russian in his Casely-Hayford suit. Ariston cashmere, Emmett shirt, Emma Willis silk/linen tie, Anderson & Sheppard pocket square in lawn cotton. Recognise the names? Course you do. Why don’t I change my fundamental moves often? Why on earth would I?

Maybe need to go in closer to show the textures- they are really lovely together. Full marks to the boy Casely-Hayford. He’s smashed it out of the park. This is just a first draft styling wise, but I rather think this might be it. If Sam, his fiance is reading this: what the hell are you doing woman? This is secret stuff. Go and google bouquets for Christ’s sake. Anyway, must dash orf. Until I put a proper review up, maybe you’d like to see The B.R. doing music journo stuff with Andrew Weatherall (click). Am hoping to embed it when I get permission off the makers, but for now its a link ting.

Stubbs out.

EVE’ MCQUEEN

Tuesday, September 10th, 2013

Morning Pun Diletantes. From my research last week, discovered this sublime piece of cutting. It’s a bespoke evening jacket from Alexander McQueen, created in tandem with the design team and the bespoke workroom downstairs by the relatively new McQueen signing, Ritchie Charlton. McQueens artful lines, with classic yet dramatic ethos executed at this level of make is pretty damn special, in black mohair. Its not so much Row and runway collide, as them parking neatly in adjacent spaces and swapping sandwiches.

Alexander McQueen shawl evening jacket.

Official description is two ply Mohair shawl collar Tuxedo jacket with silk faille rever and silk faille covered buttons and matching trousers. The shoulder is exquisite and the line of the jacket delightful. The single button fastening that comes together like a cufflinked sleeve if you wish is a beautiful touch. This is certainly appearing in my multi-functional coverage am chipping away at this week. Charlton’s worked on tailoring campaigns such at Haywards on Mount, and of course The Mighty K’s Second Coming*, the man commands some serious shears.  He’s a young vet’ in the making.  A ranking Row cutter in service at a fashion designers producing fabulous evening gear like this has got to be ‘a thing’, no? More, as, and, when, can, manage.

Stubbs out -of the Metropolis.

*Kilgour, obviously. Have you heard? There might be a third..

CUSTOM COVERT

Thursday, August 22nd, 2013

Morning Cut Fiends. Its Autumn this morning, hopefully it’ll clear up by brunchtime, but either way am going back into Crombie shop this afternoon. This means Autumn is officially coming regardless of a late bout of sun. People often call these straight, short overcoats Crombies. They sort of mean Covert coats (click), but then again, ‘covert’ is a fabric that they used to be made from and perhaps not right general term, for more confusion and speculation. These were for hunting in, but became popular at the races. Anyway, on a clearer, brighter note, some good new stuff is gonna come out of Crombie. AW13 sees a small, new more contemporary collection added. Contemporary, as ever means ’slimmer’. Meanwhile their Covert now comes in any fit ya might fancy.

Crombie ‘Retro’ Cover coat.

Quite long that clothes stand, no? Didnt know what to do with it, so had to just put it up the length it was. Unlike the new offer from the heritage Scottish firm: Made to measure Crombie covert style overcoats. From September, cut to your sizes their ‘Retro’ style coat (click) can be ordered to your spec’ and fit in 50 fabrics. Nice. I fancy check as it goes. Also, twelve different coloured velvets on the collar, with eight different Melton felts for underneath. Some might find the contrast velvet a bit obvious. Really? Sod ‘em. I dont give a monkey’s, I want a velvet collar on a Crombie, not sure which yet. Also loads of pleasant buttons from various horns to tobacco Corozo, and even specification button hole thread. Whole caper done and dusted in six weeks, during which you can even keep an eye on the status of your order on their website like you can with Parcel Force or something. £1,600 for the pleasure of.

Autumn? Bring it, my coat my have arrived by then. Taking Matey Off The Telly in too, see if he likes it.

Stubbs is out in the wet Metropolis. The singlet is dead, long live the covert.

Notes. Skinheads loved a Crombie. Cant find many/any good pictures though. Walters, you got any? Did find this strange Russian advert however.