Archive for October, 2016

SLASH QUOTIENT

Saturday, October 29th, 2016

Evening Style Mongers. Likely am erring more on style than error as am compelled toward slashed front shirt style in recent years. Really am so digging  the unfastened look though. Finding sartorial shirt and ties rigs too, too straight by far*, and now approaching some of the gorgeous printed silk shirt numbers am coverting, simply cant help but wear undone to one extent or other. What extent is what need to address; The #slash-quotient. Below is my client, Actor Luke Evans, in todays Telegraph wearing printed silk Ferragamo in the Bulgari boutique on New Bond, featuring Bulg’ kettle and necklace. Sternum height is clearly alright, agreed?

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Luke Evans in Ferragamo silk shirt & Bulgari Octo, plotted in the Bulgari boutique-shot by Jon Gorrigan (click).

Obviously slashed silk works rather well on smouldering film stars/Roman jewellery house ambassadors••••. Film stars aside though,  I’m totally feeling the open front thing for us normal fellows. Premediated slash of the right shirt says open for leisure business. Caution however as cannot appear as discarded tie scenerio, like some cut-away buisness bloke on way home after couple of pints. The sartorial equation so needs breaking up intentionally, for day and certainly for evening.  So many men dress for an office job when they’re going out these days. Oddly misguided, dull and prosctiptive. Forget sprezzatura with your splayed tie blades, get your chests out, for the lads. Think of it as sartorial shirt dergulation.

Trad’ business dressing with shirt buttoned up and a tie needs to check itself, anyway, in light of a banking crisis and rampant freudulent practice conducted by ‘straight up’, buttoned up tie-merchants. Note. Policiticans too, the standard bears of duplicity keep their shirts on, buttoned up, alot of the time. Open is open and honest. Consider that, ‘mankind’.

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Human Racey- Bradley Cooper in American Hustle

Slashed shirt style is suitable bit of casual wear window dressing for a necklace/chain/pendant action, which am also vigourously promoting. One does need to keep half an eye on you’re pec-to-derby ratio though, but surely this is a positive incentive. Man cleavage only requires a few sets of press-ups & a couple of planks to achieve. Pec-diktat: Simply repeat action daily x 5 to failure. Easy, maintane for 10 years-ish. Oh, and stop drinking lard. Doppio easy.

Slashed is only way to do patterned shirt with spirit, too. Looking for better pattern ref, but while searching am noting Ben Cobb, Editor in Chief of Another Man, (click), and our pal Luke Day, Fash’ Director from GQ Style, are major slash protags’.

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Ben Cobb, Another Man. Soz Getty, but what am I gonna do?

An open shirt also functions on some smashign  retro references levels too, from “70s Medalion Man”** (think American Hustle for more recent nudge) to louche Rock’n’Roller, a la New York Dolls. Or Dave Bowie for that matter. Does help to be Glam Rock star in full flushes of going fabulous-mascu-mental, mind. Agreed. Does help to be hairless, too. Myself am olding, and am hirsuite (but have clippers and will travel. No.2/No.3 route***). Currently am aiming for Lieutenant louche-heart but fear actually achieving Captain of the Darts Team night big out in Marbella. I’ll take it. Gotta do what you’ve gotta do, and besides, am coming to terms with being a fantasist. Surely another big slice of dressing is propelled by fantasy. Fantasy and entertainment.

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David Johansen & rest of Dolls with chalk-striped Don Steele

Entertainment might indeed kick in for those around us slash-participants, again, all part of the melee amuse. Issues ’bout age appropriatness do matter. I am sure. I should take heed and pack it all in perhaps, but sort of dont care a mo’. While the young go mental and dress up for Hallowean week, does it matter what some old bloke/s are doing in their spare time?  So at ease and unbutton, should you fancy it fellas. Its only really my pals and the odd waitress/waiter that have to put up with it. Besides, am a good tipper. Also my neighbours at 56 bus stop. And my long suffering style team. But they’re hired on basis of being tolerant and accepting to boundary pushing suitability. A sort “help the aged (into their finery) package deal”.

Talking of boundary pushing, was waiting for pal Lyall Hakaria (click) to come to arrive at last Friday to go off together to the Matches Off White Virgil thing down off Mare Street at The Laundery Building. It was well urban for a Matches bash. Rather glad not competing in that young jean pool. Thought I was instead flossin’ fractionally with medium/large slash Moschino print to 2nd/3rd rib, teamed with mink fur trim choc-cash Gieves overcoat. Then Lyall turns up at Lavinia Villa with full mink fur coat and fully zero-shirted torso. Totes slash-trumped by Hakaria. 

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Slash & tickle (waxed tache ref). Evening wear too benfits from good firm fracture down the front slash could be the crack you’re scoping for.

Hakaria was also in vintage 70s black flares, Balenciaga heels, 90’s bins (which naughty Henry Holland dubbed as SpiceGirl chic later at Richard Nichols wake at Fancy. For some crowds, bitchyness is never out of place, mourning, noon or night), and black velvet shawl jacket he ran up himself.

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Summer slashing, with Luke Day, GQ Style, and Ben Cobb, again.

While we’re doing chest chic, I also dig a singlet under tailoring or jacket, which might have mentioned several times here before. Works just nice with a chain, too.  Below is the boy Evans doing it with Sunspel singlet and Kilgour basket weave shawl stand collar, also by Jon G, from our weekend Telegraph shoot.

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Luke Evans in Bulgari shoot from todays Telegraph.

And below is that Dave dropping the combo in Heroes video film.

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David Bowie singing Heroes

Need some feedback and some clear thought. Perhaps. On a glamour rock star in face paint,  bare chest is edgy. On a simmering actor slashed is sexy. On middle ages style-jokers is a tricky, treacherous thing to be trifling with. For now, its on though. Current slash-quotient is medium-to-low, as editing this on way to job and actually in a singlet.

Misguided Rock’n’roll beligerance 20 years late pehraps? Cant exactly finish this comment off right now, as on way to Mangal due to super hunger. Grilled meat and salad is pretty Derby proof stuff, but maybe should ask the Turks that run Mangal what their take is. Those boys know their way round a slash shirt featuring gold as well as a furnace and some hot skewers.

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Bare styling a g’wan: David Johansen on a sofa, goes all the way.

Stubbs out.

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Hakaria on a bench, at Matches, goes some of the way.

 

*now have all my ties and pocket snotters in a vintage leather case in plasticue bags of like stories. Use as mobile styling archive and like very much. Not gonna wear ’em for  a while. Maybe next funeral. 

** Eighties joke lyric.

*** not a euphemism 

****Note. Luke also in Dolce brown strides (and Ferragamo jodhpur boots) but Dolce threw such a hissy fit ’bout not being full look had to remove credit. Molto amusso.

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Lyall&I keep it properly urban.

CLARK CAT CHANT

Friday, October 21st, 2016

Mornign Style Mongers. Admit I’m Dave-Lazy: Never properly immersed self in Blackstar. Have now. Went Michael Clark twice, Friday, and Wednesday last week, and got immersed. The Satie bit at the beginning seemed way better second time too. 

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A bit stalwart to nouveau Yoga ballet perhaps. Looked a trifle too shaky on Friday too, though some must have been intentional, and Clarky asking nay on impossible stuff of his company, am reasoning. 

<See BlackStar Belwo> “Why have they got tails?” M.C, asked Brix after the show. “Cos they’re cat peoples” was the reply. Explained.

When Michael Clark’s Company dance to certain music, they can make you listen better. The music ends up better in my ears after,. Quite nuts, but it does. This for example. So much more procussion is out in the front for me. now. The sort of North African sax started to sound brilliant in this

<these are missing notess>

<but this post doing my head in>

Might stop and start again.

Stubbs out.

 

 

 

 

THE FALL WITH CLARKY & CO

Thursday, October 13th, 2016

Evening Style Mongers. Wanted to do a proper post but am still working on pending style stuff. Embarrassing really, its out of control again..  part of losing contrcolled included compulsion to look at Fall x Michael Clark “I am Kurious Oranj” works today. Result of seeing  Brix Smith in conversation with Michael Clark last night for a while, up close and personnal. They covered varied cultural and social and stylistic subjects with off hand vigour and flair.  Double interesting. They talked about when Michael’s company worked with Brix’s band, The Fall for “I am Kurious Oranj”. Did see The Clark Company perform New Work 2016 last night which has justified this whole week’s existance in two hours flat (and a post I’ve not finished doing). Was brilliant. Took me two takes to really take it in. Now planning on seeing Brix and The Extricated in Novemeber as result of giving her a lift home. 

You might have noticed am struggling on here a triflle. Cant fight that, but cant give up either. Surrendering to the fuckery of it. What am gonna do, shut it down and write my tappings out on a another, new and poorly serviced site? No point. Besides, where and how am I gonna get stuff like this into my day? 

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Am happy enought to kick about on my own here for a bit while I get a handle on what am doing. Talkign of kicking about and handling, snapped an intrusive still life of Michaels leather oven gloves and black Gucci snaffle mules, plus choreography cane and some sox. Not gonna put it up here, but it is on instagram. Actaully, fuck it, am short style content for accessory fans

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Clark black leather accessory choreography cluster

Stubbs out.

PS. Might as well have this too.. this ones got it all going on: Leigh Bowery, the lot

 

 

TIED OFF

Monday, October 10th, 2016

Evening Style Mongers. Am on the case, but tied up with work. Found some really good new pieces from Jupe by Jackie (click). Double like them. 

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There’s a whole load of them in my place, really good, other brands too. Interested men? Still considering ties? Wish I was. Stuggle with shirts at the moment. And aprons even. Just tried to invent new receipe. No idea why I thought I could do that. Who knew all that stuff about shallots? 

Stubbs out.

LANDING

Sunday, October 9th, 2016

Morning Style Merchants. Saw The Michael Clark Company New Work 2016 (click) Friday night at The Barbican with The Wrong Writer. Land by Patti Smith is the music to one of the best pieces. Is semi-lodge in head currently. 

<insert coherant comment bout show and surrounding culture>

<make style based observations on other style/cultures in view this weekend>

all outfits this time of year become defined by outterwear again. Its that time. Lets talk..

 

Stubbs out.