Archive for August, 2013

DONT SPARE US THE CUTTER

Friday, August 30th, 2013

Afternoon Postal-Shirkers. Have I mentioned how keen I am on having a superior letter knife to hand? Good shoe horns are practical essentials, and a man needs a least half a dozen, but stylish letter knives are essential luxuries, and one can never have too many. I thought my collection was looking pretty respectable, then this happens, from L’Objet (click). Shit-the-desk this stuff is super-diverting, no? Brass, 24k gold and enamel. Opening PCNs never felt so exotic.

Leopard opener: Letters pray.

Simply loving L’Objet’s leopard collection. Odd how one finds self so damn inadequate straight out of the blue. There’s jade ones too, but for now, let’s push the big cat envelope. Meanwhile, no inadequacies in evidence yesterday when Artur and I sawed my bike shed into shape to fit under a fire escape. Asymetric cutting? Yamamoto, eat your heart out. My plan was to remove the roof like a lid, cut the side down from measures taken off the stairs and simply replace, just like shortening the sleeve and shoulder of a recent amputee’s suit jacket. Just for the record, They said it couldn’t be done. They know who they are. One of They is now out in Bangkok plating Chic-Boys right now, but I hope you’re reading this in between bouts. Bloody Nay-Saying-Theys.

Shedding inhibitions.

Look at accent on that roof. You don’t get that sort of verve down Gardener Haskins. Now the shed’s moved, its like the patio goes on forvever. So content with a white flat peach and a pot of calming camomile tea. (Calming? Try having 8 pots and I’ll show you freaking calm!). Anyway, gotta dash; gotta go out on my Pashley and pick out Matey of theTelly’s outfit for Sir Elton’s do on Monday. That’ll be a hoot. Take it away The Bunnymen..

Stubbs out in The Metropolis.

PS. Still on deadline over here, hence the blog post, peaches, letter knife research, and cycle ride to town, but hell I simply love cutting it fine.

PPS. Big shout out to the Harbinger of Deadline Doom. Loving your work Camilla, velvet glove, iron fist etc.

GUILT LODEN

Thursday, August 29th, 2013

Evening Fabric-Fanatics. Writing on deadline, so naturally am compelled to not only procrastinate, but to ‘grasstinate’ myself up too story wise. Or maybe Loden-self off. I’m digging this new foresty fabric and colour scene. Loden is suddenly everywhere. Its the pulled pork of fabric. So unaffected by fashion trends- yet still a trend- Thats fashion these days- in denial and undercover of itself. Regardless of terminology, what have these two coats and this shoe got in common, hmm?

Bally ‘Loden’ leather parka AW13

The clue is in the name, rather obviously,  but not in mood for being cryptic. There’s ‘Loden’ fabric and colour interpretations all over bleedin’ menswear for this coming season. Autumn. A non-compelling concept on a sunny day, as ever. Loden is the dense, Austrian/German wool fabric with a mossy, mottled, dense, robust yet luxurious feel. Its a German thing.

Fratelli Rossetti Loden leather Derby shoes AW13

German thing aside, everyone is at it. The Bros. Ross’ above for example, and this is smashing coat is from Rake. Saw it yesterday out of the blue. They showed it in blue at LC:M, but green was a revealtion. Lovely stuff Rake men.

Rake ‘Loden’ & suede overcoat AW13

I could go on, but I am supposed to be writing not doing scoop revealations, am I. Got loads more loden. Stay tuned. Actually, just go out for a spell- I would.

Stubbs out/under cosh.

PS. Artur, my P.A.* came round, eventually after laying the guilt on him pretty pretty heavily, and the shed got cropped. We forced it in under the fire escape , all nice and flush. Its an asymetric shed now. Anyone give a monkeys? If so, I shall post an image at some point.

*Personal Albanian- everyone should have one.

SUIT CYCLE

Wednesday, August 28th, 2013

Morning Indian Summerisers. Following on from Friday’s lunchtime exchange, the lads get up to leave, Karl declaring,  “I could recognise a Cifonelli shoulder from a distance of a hundred metres!” Well, it might not have actually been then, but he defo did say it.

Cifonelli make Alexandre Krafts three piece. (no wonder he looks so pleased permanently)

I however couldn’t, I admit, so am on a mission to correct my ignorance. The suit cycle of creations on Cifonelli’s site (click) might help us get up to speed. There’s alot to find out about, as they’ve been at it from 1880 in Rome, now based in Paris. They also cite English influences. They’ve got it covered, so I’ve also dropped ’em a line, but not gonna be on a Cif-tip today. Today am cycling in to town to order bespoke and MTM work from four tailors for Matey off the Box. It’s that time again. I am very keen on a D.B. vest at the moment, like the one above. Grand, quite fancy, slightly reassuring Derby wise, and unusual too. Spencer Hart did a smashing one for M(offthe)B last season, so might go again. Keen viewers will remember that I ordered one from Casely-Hayford for the Balearic Russian too. Or maybe I didnt tell you that yet? That would be keen. Also seeing Rake, and Nick Tentis today. Perhaps Crombie too. Fancy some snaps later?

Gonna wear something suitably unsuitable for the cycling. Avant garde cycling looks can be risky on many levels in deep Hackney, but if you can make it past Amhurst, you’re almost home and dry. Meanwhile, setting one’s ‘out of office’ just now, one notes there ain’t much time left. Long live the Indian summer.

Stubbs is out in The Metropolis.

DIKTAT NO.5

Friday, August 23rd, 2013

Lunchtime, Bank Holiday Friday. Yves…

“Oi, Karl, I’ve got a right flavour on. Lets slip off early. What you sayin’?”

Stubbs off.

CUSTOM COVERT

Thursday, August 22nd, 2013

Morning Cut Fiends. Its Autumn this morning, hopefully it’ll clear up by brunchtime, but either way am going back into Crombie shop this afternoon. This means Autumn is officially coming regardless of a late bout of sun. People often call these straight, short overcoats Crombies. They sort of mean Covert coats (click), but then again, ‘covert’ is a fabric that they used to be made from and perhaps not right general term, for more confusion and speculation. These were for hunting in, but became popular at the races. Anyway, on a clearer, brighter note, some good new stuff is gonna come out of Crombie. AW13 sees a small, new more contemporary collection added. Contemporary, as ever means ‘slimmer’. Meanwhile their Covert now comes in any fit ya might fancy.

Crombie ‘Retro’ Cover coat.

Quite long that clothes stand, no? Didnt know what to do with it, so had to just put it up the length it was. Unlike the new offer from the heritage Scottish firm: Made to measure Crombie covert style overcoats. From September, cut to your sizes their ‘Retro’ style coat (click) can be ordered to your spec’ and fit in 50 fabrics. Nice. I fancy check as it goes. Also, twelve different coloured velvets on the collar, with eight different Melton felts for underneath. Some might find the contrast velvet a bit obvious. Really? Sod ’em. I dont give a monkey’s, I want a velvet collar on a Crombie, not sure which yet. Also loads of pleasant buttons from various horns to tobacco Corozo, and even specification button hole thread. Whole caper done and dusted in six weeks, during which you can even keep an eye on the status of your order on their website like you can with Parcel Force or something. £1,600 for the pleasure of.

Autumn? Bring it, my coat my have arrived by then. Taking Matey Off The Telly in too, see if he likes it.

Stubbs is out in the wet Metropolis. The singlet is dead, long live the covert.

Notes. Skinheads loved a Crombie. Cant find many/any good pictures though. Walters, you got any? Did find this strange Russian advert however.