Morning Truth Nibblers. Before getting down to work, looking for a brief moment at the Milan runway stuff on line to show you some positive menswear for SS14. Give ma a bit more time please, and I’ll come back to you with something, maybe. Annoying, misguided, and conceited stuff there’s a slew of. “Lets re-imagine the suit at an established tailoring house” then call it a ‘Couture’ line. Rotate the side pockets through Ninety degrees, severely drop the notch on the lapel, turn back the cuffs and show non-matching trousers. For people who dont wear suits, this must seem double clever. For people that do, yup, thanks for that- you’ve rendered them unwearable- high end narcissistic and expensive thinking to no avail. Found one, maybe two looks from that show that would put on S&E and point to as good. This is one. I like it, its good, and remains within a presentable/wearable realm. Its by Ermenegildo Zegna.
Ermenegildo Zegna SS14.
Deeply respect that house, and sincerely hope they’ve kept their backbone straight somewhere else too. Lets us be straight, any 47 year old creative director who feels the need to roll his sleeves up to reveal his ‘subversive’ tattoos when he comes out to wave to his fans is the wrong guy to be designing for older, properly dressing men. Rant over? Not really-this aint a rant- its a truth brunch.
This image is about the statue of Neptune on the left and how distant the fashion people on the right, waiting to gain entry, are from the look on the model or the ancient deity. Its a good image, a good suit and lovely coat, but collar bar and tie bar? Thats what happens when you let a French, girl style your tailoring looks.
Brioni do a good SS14 trench and three piece check suit. Phew. Still, these big houses use new talent to explain new methods of creating ‘unexpected fabrics’ used in unusual ways. Again, very clever, any nice clothes in that specific equation however? Really think I’ve turned one corner just as fashion’s turned another, opposite one, and we are now a good two or three blocks away and nowhere in sight of each other. Meanwhile, saw some amazing stuff when doing appointments and presentations. Clever, creative, new, gorgeous, all those things- and that was just the dolce they gave me from Cova (click) with my coffee. You don’t get raspberry chocolate tarts off the runway. Prezza’s are the new show’s don’ cha know? Positive stuff to follow over next fews posts.