Archive for June, 2013

MILLING ABOUT

Sunday, June 30th, 2013

Morning Cloth-Monitors. Been writing. Everything I write I mentions mills these days, even in notes to the post office/skip hire companies. Perhaps mills are the new fashion houses. They’re all anyones talking about, in some manors. Coming Home From The Mill is by L.S.Lowry. I might have got the title wrong, as there appears to be two options.

This one works, but taking Mum to the Lowry exhibition at The Tate Britain next week, so can report back more accurately after that. As regards mills and fabrics, this is all am prepared to say at this point. Going to mill about outside for a spell.

Stubbs out.

TRUTH PECKISH

Thursday, June 27th, 2013

Morning Truth Nibblers. Before getting down to work, looking for a brief moment at the Milan runway stuff on line to show you some positive menswear for SS14. Give ma a bit more time please, and I’ll come back to you with something, maybe. Annoying, misguided, and conceited stuff  there’s a slew of. “Lets re-imagine the suit at an established tailoring house” then call it a ‘Couture’ line. Rotate the side pockets through Ninety degrees, severely drop the notch on the lapel, turn back the cuffs and show non-matching trousers. For people who dont wear suits, this must seem double clever. For people that do, yup, thanks for that- you’ve rendered them unwearable- high end narcissistic and expensive thinking to no avail. Found one, maybe two looks from that show that would put on S&E and point to as good. This is one. I like it, its good, and remains within a presentable/wearable realm. Its by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Ermenegildo Zegna SS14.

Deeply respect that house, and sincerely hope they’ve kept their backbone straight somewhere else too. Lets us be straight, any 47 year old creative director who feels the need to roll his sleeves up to reveal his ‘subversive’ tattoos when he comes out to wave to his fans is the wrong guy to be designing for older, properly dressing men. Rant over? Not really-this aint a rant- its a truth brunch.

This image is about the statue of Neptune on the left and how distant the fashion people on the right, waiting to gain entry, are from the look on the model or the ancient deity.  Its a good image, a good suit and lovely coat, but collar bar and tie bar? Thats what happens when you let a French, girl style your tailoring looks.

Brioni do a good SS14 trench and three piece check suit. Phew. Still, these big houses use new talent to explain new methods of creating ‘unexpected fabrics’ used in unusual ways. Again, very clever, any nice clothes in that specific equation however? Really think I’ve turned one corner just as fashion’s turned another, opposite one, and we are now a good two or three blocks away and nowhere in sight of each other. Meanwhile, saw some amazing stuff when doing appointments and presentations. Clever, creative, new, gorgeous, all those things- and that was just the dolce they gave me from Cova (click) with my coffee. You don’t get raspberry chocolate tarts off the runway. Prezza’s are the new show’s don’ cha know? Positive stuff to follow over next fews posts.

Stubbs out.

Cova cover.


MILAN ADDRESS

Wednesday, June 26th, 2013

Morning Style Aficiandettorios. Just back from Milan, with much to parlare about. Gonna take a while to articulate properly, so thought would start with my balcony, an ideal place to make an address from. I’ve mentioned the The Sanpi Hotel before. This time stayed in the only balcony room they’ve got. Room 135, The Presidential suit. Shweet!

It’s actually only one basic room with a bathroom and a wardrobe, but it did have old French windows with ancient wooden shutters that slide from within the wall. I had to write stuff while was away, and sitting at a small table in the sun coming through those was absolutely lovely. Looking right down Via Ludovico Settala, just over the tram lines, I could see the entrance of my beloved Giardini Pubblici, where I managed to run in three out of three days. Priorities, eh? The hotel doesnt even really look or feel like this sort of architecture, this is a building they’re sort of grown into. Anyway, enjoyed the vecchio mondo-ness of the balcony so, so much. Planned to drape Pucci pocket square over the rail like a tiny banner, then photograph. Never had the chance in the end. Anyway, on to style and fashion comment shortly..

Stubbs out.

LEEMAN THING

Monday, June 24th, 2013

Afternoon Loafer Lovers. Told ya was gonna do more on Louis Leeman. Well met the team today, charming couple of young ‘uns. This is from their SS14 collection they just showed in Milan. Best appt done for an age. More later. Off to Fendi, isn’t it?

Stubbs out.

CAKE & CAGE

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013

Morning Fancy-Fanciers. Turned out to be quite a low-key bash in the end. The Savoy is so good at the gritty, no-nonsense thing, no?

Stubbs out.