Archive for October, 2012

MARGIELA AT H&M

Wednesday, October 31st, 2012

Saw the Maison Martin Margiela H&M collaboration yesterday. Unsurprisingly its very good indeed, their collabs such as the ones with Marni and Versace always are. People go nuts for it. Its clever marketing and exciting stuff for the avid fashion consumer, bless em. This time it hits about 12 of their shops on 15th November. Before fundamentalist tailoring fans start having a go about the build, its made in the Far East, and is very affordable. Its also very limited, hence ensuing hysteria. Simply gotta love ensuing hysteria on the high street.

This coat is £150. I shan’t do the gag about it’ll be nice when its finished, that’d be awful. It is a really good piece, unfortunately as seen on Kanye early in the week. H&M had done their press room up like a MM boutique. The pert collection of clothes includes Margiela classic knit and tailoring and a number of even more directional pieces. Massive folk/Greenham Common knits is a snip at £70.

The hybrid blazer is a great piece for aspirational schizophrenics at a make-believe country club and costs £80. Wow, its like the shopping channel on here this morning.

Expect scenes of uncontrolled enthusiasm in a branch of H&M near me me soon. So, you didn’t ask how my thing went. Pah!

Stubbs is now right out in The Metropolis.

LIGHT US NOT INTO TEMPTATION

Tuesday, October 30th, 2012

While on the subject of the journey to Rubinacci, which I was, here’s how not to keep smoking cigars off your to-do list. Visit Sautter Cigars on Mount Street (click), on way to Rubi’s gaff, and have a shufty at the really smashing lighters they sell alongside the la-di-das. Look at this delightful fella.

Its lacquer Desmond, but not as we know it..Vintage ST Dupont in a sort of rosewood lacquer finish. Nice.

Okay, off out for a pitch & punt at the pink paper. Wish me luck.

Stubbs out.

SMITH’S COLLAR/COLOUR-FIELD

Sunday, October 28th, 2012

Saw Paul Smith’s mainline SS2013 early on Wednesday evening. A lively tailored interlude in a day that found self largely running about like a pillock in Donegal. The robust and superior cheese board was decisively out-shone/out-flavoured by the band of colourfully suited mannequins, styled in readiness for sartorial performance against the wall. One saw accents of Anthony Price rock-glamour in the look, but also with covered buttons and leaf shaped swollen lapels, vivid fabrics and short jackets, something of an avante garde Mod beat combo about them too.

The construction was interesting with Smithy showing his working under lapels etc. Then the charming Hazel who handles Smithys PR with a deft touch, pointed out the shirt collars and things got curiouser and curiouser.

The outer edge of the collar is neatly incorporated in the front panel of the shirt. Don’t recall seeing such a feature before. Its quite clever detail without be daft or spoiling the impact of the collar shape, don’t ya think? Particularly like the way the closed collar points inwards around the tie. I wonder how they actually perform. Worth a test drive perhaps? “Lets roll the dice, in the fools paradise..”

Very much enjoying the low notch on the double breasted numbers. Also the pegs or pleated narrow pants that come with. These fellas equate to cocktail suit or evening dress scenarios for most men one has to imagine. Unless you actually are in a stylish band, then they could be written off as work garb. Although the idea of wearing one on a Wednesday afternoon waiting for a No.9 to Mayfair appeals strongly, evening to an ageing style merchant such as me. “..share moonlight nights, breathing nothing but lies”

Shame old Smudger doesn’t show at LC:M. Or is he down for a turn in the winter one? Must check. Am compelled to talk about my super-efficient Oyster propelled journey from Paul Smith Covent Garden HQ to Rubinacci’s home up on Mount Street, but surely tales of No.9 buses, Buschecker* and Montecristos on route (masters) seem a touch mundane in comparison to the suits, so I shan’t even mention. More of the family Rubi’ later in the week. Take it away Terry..

Stubbs out.

NB. Requested details on fabric and influences which shall insert upon arrival as it if was always there. Wish could do same with Barnet Fair..

* best London based ap’ bar none.

SKYFALL’S BOND A TRIFLE BLAND

Friday, October 26th, 2012

EARNS YELLOW CARD FROM THE STYLE REFEREE

-name taken for lacklustre, middle-of-road tailoring-

Let’s get one thing straight: I love Tom Ford’s signature work, particularly his tailoring. Hope not gonna find self in bad books at the house of Ford, but I’ve gotta lay this down. Bond’s suiting wasn’t up to scratch in Skyfall. Name taken for various affrays, stays on pitch/screen by skin of teeth. Let’s not get sucked into endorsement debate or we’ll never get the DB out of the car park, right? Okay, from the top, should Bond be wearing British tailoring? Initial reaction is yes, course. Then again this is effectively costume and not a statement of plot intent, so in theory anyone could make for him. If Ford could deliver a Savile Row Brit-look correctly then let it roll. They flopped though. You didn’t look at JB and think, yup, would like to be him/look like that (which for many men, is supposed a prerequisite of the Bond thing, isn’t it?). Nothing demonstrates this look isn’t ready-to-wear. There’s almost no rope to the rope shoulder. The narrow lapels are a bit too narrow, a step away from the zeitgeist in the wrong direction and as a reader of S&E pointed out, the armholes look too big (thanks Rups). The grey fresco looking suit seems a bit cheap, and styled with a white shirt Craig looked more like a sales rep taking his scrambler up and down the M4 corridor, than an educated, worldly bloke with serious resources and background.

The blue pinstripe was weak. Zero umph. Bond in pinstripe, yes, but it needs to be ballsy Brit-Pinstripe. While moments of the plot included a ‘Make-Do-And-Mend’, A-Team like improvisation armoury section, the styling contrived to deliver ‘make-do-and-blend’. Let’s allow the idea that Agent Bond doesn’t want to stand out, and an elegant British man might exhibit the epitome of low-key taste, but even very understated Savile Row tailoring can conjure up a potent resonance that the viewer can feel whether they know why or not. That’s what Bond should be channelling. This subtle allure was absent. The tab collar shirts did pull it round on the attitude stakes, saved the day for him really. That’s quite a Fordonian thing, along with collar bars. Not particularly British, but we like. But then the little strip of pocket handkerchief was apologetic, not slick. The black shoes which could read as stoic and unfussy, the mark of a serious man, in fact looked a bit clumpy and inelegant. Perhaps that’s why in the film Bond runs like T2/Terminator in school sports day fathers’ egg race?

Shall I mention his watch, The Omega SnoozeMaster? Best not. His sunglasses were dull, in the manner or William/Harry at Lords. His Walther gun was fetching, but standard Bond stuff, though the holster did crank it up a bit in jacket-less scenes. Christ, even writing this hasn’t been exciting. Okay, what can we mention that’s positive? Shawl collar evening suit is a good idea. But then the material not madly convincing and tie too small for the width of collar.. Er, also liked the bit of leather trim on his overcoat behind the collar. Almost fetishistic. Maybe that’s where Bond should be going: Pinstripe, double breasted fetish banker. A bit of Kenny Everett almost. Just a thought. Sorry to have bored ya, but James Bland just got me down. Gonna channel this into something. Going down Mount Street to start a petition I think. Hayward were good at Bond. They understood what the service requires from a tailor. Maybe it should be a Brit’ making Bond’s whistles. It wouldn’t have been correct if an Englishman had dressed Dirty Harry, so all I can say is Tom, in the unlikely event you’re reading this, am loving your work, just not your Bond.

Stubbs out.

PS. It appears Skyfall is on at cinemas today. Go and have a look if not to see Daniel’s funny run, Ben Whishaws cardigan and some great homosexual overtones from the brilliantly dressed Javier Bardem character. In the interests of impartiality am doing him next by the way.


COMING SOON..

Thursday, October 25th, 2012

..NEW STYLE REFEREE TAKES TO THE FIELD..

-SKYFALL-

Craigs Bond stance reviewed.