Archive for April, 2012

MOHAIRS SHORT COMINGS

Tuesday, April 24th, 2012

I hate to have a dig, really I do, but have to say certain offerings from L.N.C.C.* (click) often amuse. There’s some rather good designer clobber for sale on their site one notes. Quite a bit of ‘we’re so cool we’re not even bothering trying to be cool’ posturing. Also cool. There’s occasionally some smartingly-cool/quite preposterous fashion designs on there (that you should probably know about, yeah?). Very expensive and really quite directional stuff presented in double-earnest manner. Piece of the weekend for me, is the mohair shorts from Uru (click), £272. You must know Uru, no?

*Late Night Chlamydia Clinic.

Uru ‘brick’ mohair shorts.

Uru seems like a marginally normal trendy-brand (click), except perhaps double-spenny for quite low-key looking bits on L.N.C.C., (click). Actually, maybe that’s not their site. Anyway, when one is offered some stringy shorts in brick (shall we say brick?) mohair, for nearly 300 bar, one has to laugh into one’s Nespresso. Tres-soz for being old fashioned but gotta raise an eyebrow at those, surely?

Take-up for the Highland-ceramic self-defence classes was initially slow.

Shorts over pants or leggings appear to be ‘a thing’. Misappropriated from courier style, or that quite genuinely good look that urban five-aside footballers sometimes adopt when on way home on bus? Or is it just really daft-bollocks trendy stuff? You tell me. The Shortarialist himself said it was the most important new look he was seeing in menswear (click), it ’scares and inspires’ him, and it made his pipe feel funny taking pictures of it, or similar. Key issue: on recent pant naming trends, is this style thus called ‘Shoggings’ or ‘Sheggings?”.

Damir Doma ‘midnight fire-drill’ shorts.

Meanwhile, the models all have parallel feet on L.N.C.C. Hate parallel feet. Can’t explain now, but they’re the opposite of being a live, poised human being. Parallel feet, Pah!… Don’t you Damir Doma me either or I’ll fucking freak (click)… Sorry, I appear to have had a couple too many Jaffa cakes.

Stubbs out.

Damir Doughnuts- ‘Playing with proportion and posture’. (Thinks: Just another 14 months and am free. Damn The Croatian National Service Catering Corps.)

ARNAULT & SON – THE BERLUTI PROJECT

Sunday, April 22nd, 2012

Heard about new Berluti scene for Autumn Winter 2012? Expect you have. Have a shufty if not (click). It’s a fully blown ready to wear collection and a revamp of all the Berluti shops. Antoine, son of Bernard Arnault (CEO of LVMH) is in charge. It’s a complete work of passion for him, is the word on Luxury Street. He’s been working all day, all day, all day.

I’ve seen it, touched cloth and tried bits of it on. I like it. It’s got a handwriting already, like an opulent character from a thriller set between Berlin and Paris, or something. The images and styling are really good. The knocked back colour scheme is resonant, the older models, and the almost ‘between the wars’ look to the images work. Love a bit of ‘robe-shouldering’, as you well know. Much of the tailoring is without structure in the shoulders, cut with small armholes like a Scholte shoulder, as per tailors Anderson & Sheppard. The fabrication is executed like there’s always been a house of Berluti making clothes. Being part of the LVMH crew cannot hurt on that level I’d hazard. Regardless, it’s good. Wonder what it’ll look like in the shops?

Now the story goes that Bernard bought Antoine a pair of Berluti shoes for his 16th birthday, and explained how ‘important’ they were, special patina et al. This ignited a love of the French house and it’s been Antoine’s ambition to take it to a new level of prominence, while extending it’s realm to luxe-clobber. He’s got Alessandro Sartori, an Italian from Zegna, on board as design director. French with an Italian accent eh? Much like the original Berluti set up. Or was it the other way round? Regardless, the whole thing looks pretty convincing at this point. I wonder how many people have to flock and spend dollar to make the thing work? They always say with these things it’s all about the long, long term, don’t they. Wonder how long? I hope to meet the fellas and have a chat about it for the FT HTSI. Want to find out exactly how passionate the Arnault son is. Wonder what his brief from Dad is? Cat’s little film sheds some light perhaps. Take it..

Rhythm really was a different kettle of fish then. Do like the couple pretending to be on date despite The Boy Stevens jigging about next to them, tugging his mic cord then singing. Do clock the Mod dancers who look pretty, pretty cool. Cool. Worried that Cat looks a trifle Austin Powers, or is it the other way round? While we’re in the Sixties, Berluti have heroed a couple of existing shoe styles, mainly The Andy, which has been restyled and is available in new colours. I can shed no light at this stage on the  rumour that Olga Berluti is locked in the cellar of the Rue Marbeuf shop with a ton of last until she confesses what her and Picasso really got up to during their ‘free-thinking’ periods, and if he indeed did devise a new way of seeing shoes and The Cubist Chukka boot with her. A trip to Paris is in order to uncover more truths. What would Olga’s Grandfather Torello Berluti make of the brave new plan for the house? Reckon the pioneering family of old would have been bang up for it.

The Arnault’s vigorous embrace of the situation bodes well, what with the power they wield, so reckoned Torello would be up and down the Champs-Élysées robe shouldering it in the new gear as we speak. He could have retired early and become a full time Flâneur. This gear has something of the hands-on Flâneur about, non?

Right, am off out for a spot of Flâneuring up and down Chatsworth Road I think.

Stubbs out.

P.S. My sister Julie who does edit the spelling on this here blog was a massive Cat Stevens fan. Met him a couple of times and she did drink a bit of champagne with him. Still goes to see Yusuf now. Still got the cup eh Ju, non? Thing is, Julie can’t answer back as the machine thinks its me typing. She could however make me say something mental. I’ll, go steady I think.


THE PAYPAL ALWAYS KER-CHINGS TWICE

Saturday, April 21st, 2012

Watched The Postman Always Rings Twice, 1981 version last night. Love a happy ending. Just goes to show, clunk, click, every …oh I shan’t spoil it for you, especially if you’re expecting kids. Had a look this morning at images from the 1946 original which never seen, and it looks amazing. Lana Turner and John Garfield. Gonna get hold of it. She looks madly stylish throughout in white. Jessica Lange accounted for herself nicely I would add though. Really stunning looking. Best bit though? Aside from the lawyer Katz springing them out, Jack’s hairline. Further back than mine and he still looks good. Mind you, he is Jack Nicholson.

So anyway, just got weighed-on by my eBayer this morning. Pay her top dollar and in return is top diligent, militant hustler on The Bay. She turns all the press freebie detritus into PayPal wedge and we split it. I also bleed off stuff not wearing anymore. It fetches less than the tat. Odd. It’s a small racket but useful. The stuff people will pay for beggars belief. Proper made-up tat. Anyway turning tat into a Calabrese laptop case is my mission for the first bit of the morning.

Calabrese lappers case in burnished caramel leather from Togs&Clogs £105 (click)

Calabrese lappers case in butterscotch leather from Psyche £100 (click)

Like both finishes, but think prefer one with the slight burnish on it. However while browsing the ‘Brese found this brilliant little holdall on another site. Not sure I need, but defo fancy. Double Paypal jeopardy. Will end up adding to the eWedge if buy both. What do you think? Go with the one with the David Furnish, or matchy-matchy, calibrate my Calabrese? NB. Both options match certain teeth, so win-win sitch.

Calabrese Lipari caramel leather holdall from Kakfa £320 (click)

Anyway, this isn’t work, and am supposed to be ‘working’. Thoughts on these accessories? Am pretty, pretty sucked-in. Going in for the double I reckon. Talking of doubles, gotta watch both these films…

…who says girls don’t like a forceful lunge. Spoke to three, in a group, who all said they like a good, positive, physical lunge every now and then. This film had loads of lunging in it. It’s one of its massive positives. Jack’s lunging is particularly vigorous at moments. Think on. Meanwhile back to work, e-commerse and pressing accessory decisions of the morning.

Stubbs out.



KEY PEACE

Friday, April 20th, 2012

As a fashion stylist there’s two things you’ve gotta learn. One is to say ‘key’ about stuff quite a lot, often about ‘pieces’ (means items of clothing). The other is the ability to carry a whole ton of bags at once. The images are key pieces seen over last 24 hrs, particularly textural ones.

Brunello Cucinelli casmere shawl collar dress suit (clicko)

Yesterday was leaving yard with a ton of bags. A whole style-days worth of baggage. Stuff for everyone/everything: matey off the telly (five suits, key accessories and a bag of new, utterly-key chinos), Jimmy Choo returns from JW’s video shoot, some trouser alterations for self (must go narrower), also for self pair off-key green Berluti’s planning to have changed to inky blue/black and my skimpy Dunhill brief case.

Carven fleck pants (click)

Briefly returned through first door as forgotten one last thing to pick up: my phone-ear piece. This might have been straw that naused the camel’s mission into town. Shut second door behind self using teeth on one bag/toe on the door knob combo, only to realise door/car keys sticking out of inner door lock. Instant lumber. No keys, no car, maximum lumber. Then began to rain. Properly rain.

Paul Smith waffly peak label overcoat thing (you know him)

Was most liberating to dump almost entire haul with my man Seymour the mechanic round corner on Cricketfield. Him and his dread-mechanic pals laughed at my plight and enquired what I’d got from Jimmy Choo. Explained Dermot’s suits wouldn’t fit any of them as I left whole lot with them. Only took his chinos and my case and got on 38 bus.

Ami check tweed jacket and vest (clicki)

Found pedestrian peace on 38. Without car could only abort almost all missions. The 38 trundled and I thought long about time, missions and what life was all about. How it can be derailed in a trice by a bad move. Fragile plans. Stuck on bus with no book and no music. Lost so much time, could only barely attend Brunello Cucinelli press day at The Baroness’s gaff where I shot the delightful cashmere shawl collared dress suit at top of page. Other key pieces are from Wednesday’s key Matches press day. Utterly key.

Carven zip cable knit (click).

On foot got so thoroughly drenched bag of chinos disintegrated into Papier-mâché and fragmented on trench coat. Was actually great sympathy prop for late arrival at matey’s Mansion. Wet and covered in detritus is a look. Meanwhile, did discover the magnificence of the C2 bus route for W1 to Primrose Hill, should that be needed ever. Hail Bus Checker, my one and only app. Could not bring self to moan as drenched with Papier-mâché accessories on a steamy bus is how the world rolls most of the time. Was actually quite a spiritual jolt in many ways. If could only take one thing with when leaving drum, it would be Oyster card, right? And keys maybe.  That’s it, other than iPhone with Bus-Checker, and a Burberry trench. And an umbrella, from James Smith & Sons if raining really hard. Oh I do adore the simple life. Off to Seymour’s to see how they’re all wearing Dermot’s suits down the Chatsworth Road…

Stubbs keeping it key and at peace with Oyster.

Mr.Rick Tailor tweed overcoat (click)


FLASH US YOUR POCKET

Thursday, April 19th, 2012

“Pocket squares are the new tits” Jo-Ann Furniss said last year in Man About Town* issue No.14. She was talking about men’s mags obsession with pocket handkerchief stuff. Nineties was tits, now its pocket squares. Think that was the thrust of it. Am probably one of the hype men on this pocket based issue. ‘Keep on collecting’ is the way to make yourself fully pocket articulate. Vintage and obscure is best. Variety’s what ya need to do pocket style with any verve. Saw these pocket adornments at Versace and Prada on Wednesday.

There was a half eaten scone on the display when I first saw this, but couldn’t shoot it time before it got whisked away. Shame. Raspberry decorated. Really like this guilt ribbon, flash prefect medal pocket decoration. Pimp my breast pocket ethic.

All the stuff protruding from the pockets of the Prada coats was interesting. Badges and emblems fashioned from twentieth century symbols of masculinity such as American football helmets, little coloured leather wallets, as well as tinted glasses, pins and bits of clothe. That AW12 show was monumental. More.

Us fellas haven’t got much to mess about with without getting a rep’ for cross dressing/coming like a fashion student, so the pocket envelope is one we should be pushing. Put your stamp on a look and post something leery today.

Stubbs out.

* Have got an article in the next issue of Man About Town, don’t I. Have a look at their TV thing for a weird jolt if you fancy (click)