Archive for September, 2011

LFW MEN’S DAY PART I

Saturday, September 24th, 2011

Men’s day at LFW is actually good. Christ it took a while to get going, but with the help of the omnipotent Topman and it’s NewGen project, the B.F.C and other factors like many of our designers are convincing and strong now, we’ve got something going on. Which is lovely. I’ts a proud day for us men’s fashion mob to be bowling round our own metropolis attending our own shows. Soon foreigners will come in their droves. How many people in a drove these days?

NB. There’s a video of a girl at the end of this post if you’re interested.

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

First important show I attended was Shannon at 9.45am. Sitting one seat over from Ma’ Shannon has nothing to do with the fact that thought it was brilliant. Properly brilliant. He smashes it with his signature key pieces. That’s what ya got to do. You only need about four key pieces and you’re functioning. For him it’s graphically divided shirts with panels and a street savvy slant on ‘designer’, it’s lad-fanciable little bomber/blousons, premium shorts and that rare thing, nice, cuffed-bottomed track pants. Favourite street style designer at this moment.

Go on, mention comb head-pieces and slightly treacly hair in a negative way.  I dare you.

TOPMAN DESIGN

In many ways, Topman Design is the most consistently coherent men’s runway show one gets to see. They’ve got the team, the wedge, the strength of position to do push stuff that functions on various style levels. They’ve got top bods on board and can afford to edit out stuff that doesn’t work. They hit you up with excellent suiting ideas that you could probably afford without too much worry. A firm take on Spring’s light colours and textured fabricaction in DBs. Then they parade a whole roster  of top-end styling that takes fabric/prints, colour balance and informed directional design right out there with the many notable international designers. The prints are excellent, the knits pushing the envelope with the best.

OK, they do send down the odd miniscule burgundy cord/suede hot pant teamed with a big old hand knit, but they can afford to. The knit they put over the top is actually super good, so the stoic detractors can simply swivel. This is fashion week after all, can’t just do pleasant suiting, eh?

I’ve edited the morning down to three things. Might expand. Might not.

AQUASCUTUM

And then there was Jo Sykes’ first proper collection for Aquascutum, a light dynamic and pert affair. She’s got the suiting and outerwear blocks in place giving her the scope to do some exciting stuff with fabric and colour. Hate to mention money, but these suits are affordable too. £600-£800. Interested? I was. Sykes says it all the video I think, so I don’t have to.

LFW mens TBC.

TS



VIDEO STANCE NO.35

Thursday, September 22nd, 2011

MR. NICK CARVELL

LFW, outside the Savoy, waiting for Tautz, right, and there’s this fella Carvell, one of the Mr. Porter crew. Had to nab a quick Stance as he looked pretty upbeat and neat. They’re a formidable lot, the Porters. This one kept mentioning stuff I hadn’t heard of. The shame of it. Anyway, save the napkin, thought was good look. Didn’t mention the J. Crew suit much in the video, but this sort of cotton drill lightness is way forward for Spring. Trust us, we go to LFW and everything.

MR. CARVELL’S STANCE

(Click on names)

As usual, gonna finish this later, honestly. Maybe it’s all on Mr.Porter anyway? (click). Blow me, it is.


Want Les Essentials lappers case.

Alexander Olch tie. Nice work.

Stubbs out in the Metropolis.

TOOLING UP FOR LFW

Wednesday, September 21st, 2011

The squirrels have forced my arm on this. I’ve had to tool up. Stylishly though, naturally. Christopher Jarratt (click) is an artist who’s made these limited edition slingshots. Nice eh? Think getting a green one. £50 mind. Perhaps will serve as a deterrent. To squirrels, cats or other fashion factions?

Will be doing some actual coverage of the shows on S&E once have attended some. Really I will.

TS out in The Metropolis.


LFW FACTIONS TBC (FROM LN-CC)

Wednesday, September 21st, 2011

Right, so where was I? Oh yes, in the middle of a proper trendy gathering in its early stages. Let’s get one thing straight. I’m an old guy in fashion. I nut about in suits and stuff, and do probably look like an old fart to young observers. This is a given. Disclaimer over, I’m interested in the new factions back on the set of ‘Aliens – DIY’ – the party episode.

Apparently invisible in C.P. Company, alone, I had time to watch. I’m not here to write about girls, this is about men’s style. As far as I could tell there were about four main factions in play. The medieval asym-haircut brigade were out in force, gravitating towards the notional epicentre of ‘fashion fowards’. They were doing OK, mooning about and looking too too cool to acknowledge the dance floor and its U.S. garage throb. Dark hoods, leggings, big boots and stringy/cowly knits, all in black. Palid boats by contrast. Like Bauhaus netball teams, with basin cuts and peroxide quiffs, waiting for the mini-bus/band to come. They’re bang on the Damir Doornail as soon as their grant/dole/pay cheque comes, bless ’em. Or do they run it up themselves?

Striking me as most dislocated were the boys doing the prescriptive, informed East London stance. Diminutive flood chinos, denim shirts over t-shirt, quite nice quiffy hair, er.. some shoes. Confused as, walking round anxiously thinking, ‘I’m trendy, they’re trendy, surely this is cool, but why don’t I know what to do? Keep walking? Keep looking, er..’. Shame. Their look is diffused by the night. They just look, heaven forbid, normal. Like they could have just finished their job down the Kings Road moving stock in Dad’s stationery depot. The skinnier ones with sling bags and knitted docker hats, like American paper-round twerps. Not edgy, and boy they knew it. Rethink -Remodel (click for inspiration).

The Japanese trend mongers are never shy to throw themselves into a scene headlong. Representing designer fashion like it was going out of fashion, they seemed quite grateful to be milling in Dalston. The madder stringier stuff, the collegiate outwear remakes and the big hats of work on them. Tick. NB. Dont try this at home.

Make way for the Quakers Bears. Big, bearded and effectively the alpha males of trendy fashion. Ubiquitous big beards and conveniently oversized work clobber is their thing. Like hicks having just finished down the wood shop,  they prowl angrily in fury/wooly/bally outerwear. ‘You not from round here boy?’, I expected them to utter, not at me, obviously. How do  Quaker Bears dance? I never found out. Do they dance? I know one quite well. Am gonna ask him?

To my out-of-train eye, the thing that was lacking, was any guts or spine. I’m into surfaces as much as the next style fan, but this lot don’t seem to have come from anywhere party-culturally. The looks are all pretty well researched, to the point of being identikit, but there’s no actual party culture. Where are the boys terrorising other boys and even showing off in front of  girls?Even the models do that. Where are the jokers, the dancers, and the lets-go-mentalists? Wave your tats in the air, like you just don’t care.  All their tats say subversive, but the faces say, ‘Er..I am part of something?’. OK it was a fashion do and they can be a bit straight/dry, but it was the expressions that got me.  Not even pretty vacant. More consistently anxious. Outside was more fluid I have to say. A better backdrop for intercourse than the B&Q labyrinth.

Linked my pal and went home before anything happened. Had some prawns that were going off. Back with my prawns, I expected the party was going off, proper style, right kids? Good for them. It was day one of LFW. Maybe they need to warm up. It’s the last day today. Am not warmed up in slightest.

Getting an early night before LFW Mannish day. Gonna wear a suit and loom about like am reporting for some lofty niche titles. Oh, wait..

Stubbs in again during LFW.

LFW: SUET BALL WAR

Tuesday, September 20th, 2011

It came early. Just after dawn. I was ready for the attack, and staved if off for hours. It didn’t matter though, as it was relentless. I took a call at 7.40am from Sexton about Chester Barrie, and in the time it took me to make a coffee the squirrels had taken another ball. I caught one sod having a last go at the feeder. I used a new ‘grape shot’ technique and fired a dozen small stones his way all at once. I made a hit, he lost his footing in the tree, but recovered and the little sod made off.

Supplies are getting low, and I cant see myself making through LFW at the current rate of insurgence. I have to up the stakes. I said I’d never resort to chemical warfare, but the climate is changing quickly here. I never thought it would come to this. I’m going up the Turkish to buy Pledge.

TS.