LFW MENS DAY PART II

One week old catwalk reports. That’s what they built the internet for, no? You lot don’t really give a monkey’s about being instantly informed, surely. What difference does it make? You can’t buy this stuff for ages. Just when is SS12 planned for release anyway? December I expect. Shorts, in the bleak midwinter. Whatever next? A Japan revival perhaps. See end of post. Really you should.

Tony Lewis, me and my assistant, Joan.

E.TAUTZ

Regardless of time paralax, went to E.Tautz at the Savoy at about lunchtime (a week ago). Patrick Grant, whom am sure you know, does things in the old fashioned manner of a walk through with live, posh commentary. And a live cellist. I like the format, but I don’t suppose it would work if everyone did it. Only he does, and does it well, so it’s good. He told a story this time too. Couldn’t actually see the inspiration in the collection myself, but the tale is a quaint one. See video if you fancy it. Some live ‘salon’ action at the end. Brace yourselves.

Enjoyed colour balance of E.Tautz, the lighter fabrics. (Some were missing from his Paris showing. Curious. The furnishing like fabrics with slubs in them in natural colours. Think they are absolutely the way forward. Shall enquire further, but believe is problem with some supplier or other. (Probably died or starved or something). Also digging the cut of the DB’s. Light weight parkas, executed well are always going to excite proper outerwear fans. The big knits with T emblazoned upon it are of interest too.

This next one is pre-Fall, whatever that means in real terms.

OLIVER SPENCER

This fella keeps doing his thing (clickmans), unswayed by fashion week, and keeps making an impact with his upbeat, quick paced, cleverly cast shows. He throws all manner of bods down the runway together. His stuff is all sort of washed and wearable right off the show. Nothing starchy about Spencer, really good Brit-bloke styling for really stylish, tactile, totally wearable, fastening fans. Don’t stop. Shout To The Top by The Style Council (click for instant uplift) lifting one up no end too. Take it away boys.

MR.START

So, all buzzing and that from The Style Council, the sunshine and a glass of Sancerre on the corner of Seven Dials, went to Mr. Start down St. Martin’s Hotel with Elgar from i-D. Philip Start’s suiting is good (clickage). Men, take heed. Well affordable, at about £550-£750 these suits are worth considering on a few levels. Right? OK. Here’s a short video, not riveting, but atmospheric maybe. Note, one of the models looks a bit like David Silvian. Who? The singer out of the group Japan of course, you big joker.

Got me thinking that Japan’s look around the time of Tin Drum, could be looking dead right for now. I was desperately trying to look like David Silvian when at school in about 1983-5. Why would you do that with such limited natural resources I do not know. Adolescence eh? I used to have to go home at lunchtime and re-blow dry my hair. It was a massive production. Preposterous. Mum wouldn’t let me go properly high-lit blonde, so had to make do with Lo-lites. Rubbish. I still resent that Mum as it goes. Spent all my time trying to wear a Mac buttoned up over my uniform and a non-school shirt buttoned up to top with no-tie. Thought that was very David. Cool? Very doubtfully.

Loving the bins David. They prescription, or do you just wear them in the paddy-field to look more edgy? Wanna hear what this sounded like? For Visions of China (click it). I used to take it all so seriously. How was this ever gonna impress girls? Getting down to the sound right though. Play that fretless bass Mick Kahn, play it.

Alright lads, what’s happened? Someone had your table away? Can I take your drinks orders at least? One more instalment of LFW Mens left, in which we go to Claridges then do some running in the dark.

Stubbs out.

9 Responses to “LFW MENS DAY PART II”

  1. Beau Diddley Says:

    LFW – as seen through the glorious prism of Mr. Stubbs – gets better and better. As Mr. Bono once said ‘even better than the real thing’. Top notch reportage.

  2. SB Says:

    I remember my Mums annoyance at me parting my hair on the right “wrong” side because I could achieve a much more sculptured flick, sweeping fringe affair, I was not allowed any kind of lights hi or low.

  3. Bryan Ferragamo Says:

    London Fashion Week was a disaster – AGAIN. And once again, ony JustHideous.com is saying it like it is. Just Google ‘LFW Men’s day’: you get G-bleedin-Q, a couple of British broadsheets (doing an online-only round-up, note) and NO ONE else.

    Men’s Day – and pretty much the whole of London Fashion Week to be frank – has ZERO impact. Why? Well just look at the pictures above – because it’s ordinary. Unbelievably, toe-curlingly, disgracefully ordinary. Tautz, Spencer – you could create exactly the same effect by shopping at Debenhams any season, any day of the week. They should all be ashamed.

    As Stubbs says himself, where was the inspiration? Where was the energy? If king of hyperbole Stubbs can’t muster praise beyond ‘suiting is good’ and ‘good Brit-bloke styling’, something is wrong, VERY wrong.

  4. SB Says:

    The nature of fashion is necessarily transient and as such nothing will remain classic unlike tailoring per say. So do the shows at LFW really need be super serious affairs?

  5. Sid Naked Says:

    Many looks here to consider but from the lower end up I gauge them to be:

    1) Indescribably dull.

    2) Irate Mesmerist: More fool you for waking your next door neighbor – The Egyptian Magician – up in the middle of the night. Sure, he’ll lend you some jump leads, even if it is 3am. But in the fullness of time, your first born will die.

    3) Bay Nonce: Trying to make ends meet with some life guard work in The Hamptons while pretending to read novels in order to impress women who don’t even notice you until you end up pretending to drown yourself just to get some attention.

    4) Country House Predator: Yeah, i just threw this on after I f*cked your maid. Have you got a mini cab number? Cheers. Sorry about the sheets.

    5) The New Footman: Boils with resentment at financial success of stepfather. Will grow up to mutilate a horse.

    6)High Visibility Simpleton: Thank God they found you after the accident.

    7) The Talentless Mr Shipman: Hiding in cloisters – sexually uncertain.

    8) Cad Danube: Balkan based mid level Bond villain, dead by Act Two.

  6. Bryan Ferragamo Says:

    Exactly, Naked, exactly.

    But to answer SB, no one’s saying it has to be serious, it just has to be GOOD, otherwise what’s the point? And this year’s showing just isn’t good, it’s ‘blergh’ at best. Be flighty and transient and disposable if you like, but be interesting, be original. And that’s why no one gives a monkeys – which is a tragedy.

  7. Keith Talent Says:

    I think they should bring back CB radio.
    What’s your handle?

  8. SB Says:

    Ill bet the Cuban celebrated with a nice 52 RG smoke too

  9. Daran Says:

    Japan = great band. Mick Karn the bands bass player tragically passed away earlier this year. Mr Sylvian was always top of the new romantic fashion parade, even if the Duranies/Spandau has the #1 song.

    A very cool guy.

Leave a Reply