STATE III : DOLCE & GABBANA
OK. Enough messing about. Instead some designer tailoring from the boys. Forget Butch&Sundance (for now), this lot have been doing masculine and stylish for years.
For this Autumn/Winter, factored in to their take on a Sicilian romantic take on mens constructed style they present a new shorter length jacket. They’re on the money with that idea, as I’ve noticed the stuff thats working most excitingly from tailors, has often been a half/inch or so shorter than standard. I asked them why.
Stephano Gabbana “We wanted to experiment with new cuts and proportions. We want to talk to people who don’t buy suits as an obligation, but to young people who enjoy the pleasure of buying a tailored suit. We are trying to divulge sartorial culture to the young.”
They usually work with classic mens formats and fabrics to potent effect. Pinstripes, grey flannels and starched white shirts work best in their hands. This is their runway collection, and is the one that pushes the limits slightly, but it does herald a subtle shortening of their jackets. These sort of jackets work well ‘broken’ with jeans or more casual pants. That’s where the young bit comes in perhaps.
On occasion they go further, and this gets trickier to wear. They do separates too. This stuff looks softer and less built up. These achieved by different approaches to construction. Dominco Dolce explains.
“We started where we always start: our roots. Then we have built on it with new procedures, fabrics and new washing and boling methods for blazers.”
What look does it give wearer? “ The look becomes very soft and relaxed, it’s no longer aggressive. Fabrics are also soft and warm.”
With evening wear too, they’re doing shorter cuts.
More from the lads later maybe. Thats it for now. Jet lag and riots at home, very tricky mix to work with.
TS out.
PS. Put this last picture up for Bryan F, V.I.P, and S.B. I can see you three on a night out in this get up. The new Hollywood Black tie perhaps?
August 9th, 2011 at 8:49 am
Jesus, it’s all going to the dogs, isn’t it? You used to be able to rely on D&G to deliver slim elegance, but this frankly is a disaster.
Okay, so they’re trying new cuts, fair enough – but they’ve failed in their primary purpose which is to use those cuts to make men look GOOD.
Assuming you’re not in the business of pushing the boundaries of style (yes, I’m looking at you Stubbs, sit up straight boy), the point of a suit is to flatter, to make you look BETTER. Presumably all of these mannequins are at least six foot tall, but these suits make them all look like short arses: the effect of the shorter jacket, having the fastening button too high (less of a ‘V’) and pairing them with trousers which are far too full, effectively cutting the body in two – not to mention giving you a creased crotch like some horrible old tramp.
So yes, if you want to look like some piss-stained midget, go for it. Push those boundaries. Just don’t be surprised if people keep trying to buy the Big Issue off you.
August 9th, 2011 at 9:15 am
Unusually Sir F. I find myself in agreement; there don’t appear to be too much air between knuckle and floor in a couple of the pictures, maybe just bad shots?
August 9th, 2011 at 10:03 am
The camera never lies…except on some specialist erotic websites I could name.
Anyway, look at the fourth shot down, the fella in the overcoat passing back up the runway far right, even HE looks short, even though you only get a glimpse of his back. It’s the slope of the shoulders too and the fact that the sleeves are too long. It’s a right dog’s dinner, frankly, like an episode of ‘Project Catwalk’.
August 9th, 2011 at 12:11 pm
Have updated the copy
this is their fashion forward boundary pushing collection
they still do the other one, this one just heralds the new shortness
too busy to argue too much about this
they still do the other suits basically, but this mean jackets might get an inch shorter in the next year at this house.
si?
August 9th, 2011 at 12:14 pm
Thom Browne inspired and that’s the problem in that they are fashion suits that will date quickly indeed. Maybe one for fashion girls only?
August 9th, 2011 at 12:22 pm
You can see us in these? I am sure that some day our paths will cross, and much like the day of judgement you will rue the day that you made such an ill considered jibe!!
August 9th, 2011 at 4:58 pm
C’est merde pour pedé.
August 9th, 2011 at 5:44 pm
We still haven’t seen your ring. Drop n show.
August 9th, 2011 at 5:45 pm
Too, too busy Matey. O
August 9th, 2011 at 6:44 pm
O go on tommykins
August 9th, 2011 at 6:58 pm
But we do love you stubbsy you little ssssstudmuffin
August 9th, 2011 at 10:55 pm
So what you’re saying, in effect, is that they shouldn’t have even bothered with this ill-thought out and badly-executed collection. Instead, they should just have sent someone down the catwalk (perhaps a young ’stud muffin’) holding a big placard reading ‘Okay everyone, jackets will be slightly shorter next year’ – like a fashion version of that big hamster in ‘Groundhog Day’.
Unfortunately, it doesn’t ring true given that Norman Wisdom jackets just like this have been available in Top Man – in fact they’ve been available in River bloody Island – for at least two years. Looks an awful lot like Stefano and the other baldy one are copying ‘the young people’ instead of the other way around, doesn’t it? Or rather, they’re copying River Island. So much for ‘trickle down’.
August 9th, 2011 at 10:58 pm
And stop fantasising about dressing us all up for a Big Night Up West, Stubbs. You know very well the restaining order expressly precludes anything of the sort.
August 11th, 2011 at 10:39 am
I may bring the whole group look down with my wayward hair