STATE III : DOLCE & GABBANA
OK. Enough messing about. Instead some designer tailoring from the boys. Forget Butch&Sundance (for now), this lot have been doing masculine and stylish for years.
For this Autumn/Winter, factored in to their take on a Sicilian romantic take on mens constructed style they present a new shorter length jacket. They’re on the money with that idea, as I’ve noticed the stuff thats working most excitingly from tailors, has often been a half/inch or so shorter than standard. I asked them why.
Stephano Gabbana “We wanted to experiment with new cuts and proportions. We want to talk to people who don’t buy suits as an obligation, but to young people who enjoy the pleasure of buying a tailored suit. We are trying to divulge sartorial culture to the young.”
They usually work with classic mens formats and fabrics to potent effect. Pinstripes, grey flannels and starched white shirts work best in their hands. This is their runway collection, and is the one that pushes the limits slightly, but it does herald a subtle shortening of their jackets. These sort of jackets work well ‘broken’ with jeans or more casual pants. That’s where the young bit comes in perhaps.
On occasion they go further, and this gets trickier to wear. They do separates too. This stuff looks softer and less built up. These achieved by different approaches to construction. Dominco Dolce explains.
“We started where we always start: our roots. Then we have built on it with new procedures, fabrics and new washing and boling methods for blazers.”
What look does it give wearer? “ The look becomes very soft and relaxed, it’s no longer aggressive. Fabrics are also soft and warm.”
With evening wear too, they’re doing shorter cuts.
More from the lads later maybe. Thats it for now. Jet lag and riots at home, very tricky mix to work with.
PS. Put this last picture up for Bryan F, V.I.P, and S.B. I can see you three on a night out in this get up. The new Hollywood Black tie perhaps?