STYLE & ERROR

Sunday’s shows reviewed by confectionery. See end of post for the moving video of the week’s fashion walking wounded from Wallpaper.

ICE CREAM AT PAUL SMITH

The only front row action I get, as am going in for second coconut ice cream in row in heat outside Paul Smith on Sunday. The stylish tache bloke is Ben Cobb, editor of Another Man magazine.

ICE DOUGHNUT AT LANVIN

Earlier that day had astonishingly good iced ring doughnut at Lanvin, which although quite thin had custard in it, also in the heat. Thoroughly mental.

NICHE AT MR. BY ROLAND MOURET

Nothing whatsoever to eat at Mouret. Come on Roland, wha’gwan?

ICED JAM SPONGE AT MARGARET HOWELL

Some really special little sponges with jam in at Margaret Howell. Had three. Yes, three. No pictures of Margaret Howell yet. So, gonna put a video up of poor Mr. Sebastian Clivaz from Wallpaper magazine who has broken his metatarsal bone in his foot when he toppled off his Prada  espadrille/brogue fusion platforms. Quite bad scene all round. STYLE & ERROR wishes you a speedy recovery Sebastian.

Stubbs out.

DOUBLE CAUTION FOR TEAM McLAREN-MERCEDES

For sartorial blandness at launch of some new showroom thing or other.

These two currently rank numbers 4 and 2 in the F1 championships, which is rather impressive. However, I am compelled to caution both Lewis Hamilton and Jenson ‘Devizes Carnival’ Button for looking so un-extraordinary at the launch of the new McLaren show room. I’m to be a guest at Silverstone for the Grand Prix, and hope don’t get my comeuppance for passing this judgement, but I can’t help wanting my racing drivers to be a little more, well, racy. They’re both young, in shape, and not short of a bob or two. In which case, this bland turn-out in isn’t good enough. They look like two Pseudo Alpha dicks off  The Apprentice. Hamilton’s suit is OK, but not with black, dubiously dull shoes and tie. Button’s suit is alright too, but then with the straightest of straight grey ties with semi Windsor knot is simply soporific. Too harsh? Is that it fellas? Not good enough, names taken. Am sure that’ll unnerve them all the way ’til July 10th when I’m being airlifted (yes airlifted in with Heir Leery) to the Grand Prix. Lads, we’re watching you.

TS.

NB. Just pulled up for using patois on this post. Was quite tongue in cheeky to be honest, but maybe the fella had a point and have tweaked it.

MR. NICK SULLIVAN

Suave operator Sullivan is the Fashion Director of U.S. Esquire, but you’ll note from his accent and demeanour that he’s actually British. He was dropping it in relaxed manner at the Hermes SS 2012 show in Paris at Au Cloitre des Cordeliers on Saturday night: A proper master-class in nonchalant but informed. The man spans the globe doing style while charming people in various languages and still keeps his hand in at being a knock-about-guy. Clever stuff. Eating chips? I doubt it. Take it away Bond, sorry I mean Nick.

MR. SULLIVAN’S STANCE

(click on names for links)

-Piombo cotton double breast jacket.

-Emma Willis shirt from the First Lady of Shirts,  Jermyn Street.

-Churchs ‘Shangai’ 1929 Ghillie replica shoes of some sort. Curious but distinctive as between the walls golf shoes are getting.

-J.Crew jeans.

-Tom Ford eyewear.

-Hermes 1938 Aviator watch. Don’t know where to find those myself. Maybe write to Nick at Esquire.

TS out.

THE RETURN TO DOUBLE BREASTED CONTINUES

..and to best effect in textured and a naturally toned fabrication. Wide pants, low fastenings in  glazed linens, slub linens and hop-sacks in neutral almost furnishing-esque fabrics are the way forward for elegant DB action. This is by Roland Mouret Mr. There is more to comment on from other Paris designers, however…

THE RETURN TO CLAPTON E5 IS COMPLETE. THANKFULLY.

Am plotted back in yard and on deadline for FT HTSI tailoring piece today so shan’t be doing too much reporting yet. Endless receipts, loose dollars and euros litter the surface of my G-Plan like discarded betting slips, while in Kai Kristiansen  chest of drawers my sunglasses, cufflinks and other finery look like there’s been a ransacking by a picky magpie. This wont do. This cant last. Must file. Must pass.

In other Clapton news, it’s also JW’s birthday today. So many happy returns of the postcode to you matey. Last year’s saw him wrestled in The Dorchester by Morrissey. A spot of Thai boxing with contemporary dancer Michael Clark down Hawksmoor later then perhaps? One can only hope.

TS is back in the home Metropolis.

MR. CLIVE DARBY

Caught Le D’arby in the middle of Paris fashion week, hanging out down the Marais. Clive is presenting his menswear tailoring line, Rake (click), which is turning out utterly brilliant: style fact.  He’s busting head to toe his own product here, but frankly why else would you start your own stylish clothing operation if it’s not to turn yourself out nicely? Darbers worked with Kilgour back when it was good. I think you can see the evolution of the lines from where The Mighty K left off, but Darby has moved it on. Rake is really going from strength to strength as they debuted Rake Lounge for SS2012.

MR. DARBY’S STANCE

(Click for links)

-Rolex GMT Prohunter. Good eh? Sort of stealth Roley. Really must stop id-ing Roleys wrongly on this site or will be struck (geddit) off the list of watch scribes. It’s the pressure of filming these high rollers that makes me nervy. Honest.

(See new S&E franchise, TAILOR SCAPE later this week).

Stubbs out.