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May 2011



Long term pal of Mr. Tolera, (see VIDEO STANCE NO.16), naturally Mr. S was in attendance at Thursday’s offal-of-the-night-art show, where I nabbed a minute or so with the style merchant extraordinaire. Check his testimony for some hard (and fast) rules and sartorial opinion. Sulivan writes for various vaunted publications on style. He’s been dropping seriously constructed looks since before Pontius was a pilot, and has been involved in more scenes than you could wave an ivory topped cane at. He also ran The WAG club for over a decade and still puts on stylish little bashes in town. I think I might let him do the talking.


(click names for links)

Kilgour, French & Stanbury three piece from early 2000’s, (Pre-Brandelli and pre recent take over). Kilgour has gone back to being double straight again after defining a decade of British tailoring under Carlo Brandelli. NB. Kilgour was Hitchcock’s favourite tailor and North By North-West was all by the might K. It’s worth reading up on whole thing if you’re interested. Ritchie Charlton who made this suit is now at the re-invigorated Haywards on Mount Street.

-Emma Willis bespoke shirt with spear collars. We all love Emma who is a very well spoken and talented sort.

-Oliver Sweeney Derby shoes, or ‘Smooths’ as Mr. S calls them

-Lucerne vintage watch. No site to link to as Lucerne is a name used by a number of watch makers.

-Vintage Persol opticals.

Gonna get some more verbal from Mr. Sullivan to add, and am gonna interview regarding Christos Tolera and his band, Blue Rondo a la Turk. But for now, see below and..



A call came in late on Friday, while I was minding my own business doing a few planks between emails . It was film people. A bloke called Joshua Dallas, who is an actor, wanted styling this Sunday. He’s just been in a film called Thor (click). This isn’t what one does frankly and am frightfully busy, but was slightly intrigued by certain elements, particularly the fee.

Dallas (right) embraces beard trend.

You’d plan and strategise shoot prep normally, request appointments with PR offices and all that. At 16 hundred hours on a Friday, there is no time. Style Blitzkrieg was the only way, turning up sometimes unannounced and doing impromptu fashion sample-raids. Client had asked for Stubbs tailored sharpness plus the special forces garb I’ve deployed previously.

Bank holiday boot camp.

Jumped off the 55 at Old Street and did C.P. Company  and Woolrich at Four Marketing. Special forces look, done. Then hit RAKE (click) at La Mingays’ HQ on New Bond. Rake is getting so, so good. Check it. Tailoring done. Bagged shoes from Louis Vuitton and Berluti. High on adrenaline and Nespresso, stealthed into LV office without appt or a word to team, rushed the cupboard, grabbed an offending ‘tri-colour’ shoe that has crept into my recent FT coverage somehow quite wrongly and whilst wielding it Thor hammer-style above the  head of the PR assistant demanded to know if he thought wearing pretty-trendy opticals was going to save him from what I was about to do? It was then I noticed the tabled-meeting affair going in a glass room not previously seen directly on my right. They were mainly French, and mainly looking alarmed.  But then I expect they expect that sort of thing in London surely.  I don’t think I even said fuck that loudly, so all was fine. Love team Louis Vuitton so very much these days, it has to be said.

Scrubs up nice: Dallas in RAKE.

All that remained was to mince about Matches (click) a bit pulling expensive tee-shirts and a Dolce shirt. Found incredible Dolce suit as a result which am gonna get for the boy O’Leary. Shall buy and post Tuesday, is really quite something.

Goggle hood by C.P.Company.

Met Mr. Dallas Saturday high noon and found he was a charmer. Felt him up on Bond Street within half a second of meeting him, (he wore it), and realised he was going to be fine with the sizes. It was gonna work. There’s something to be said for no planning, and, with a bit of fannying about Saturday, I was done. (God bless weekend tailors). Sunday bank holiday in a scruffy, tatty, pastry-less flat in Whitechapel with a photographer I’ve never heard of wasn’t what I had in mind, but Josh was a good enough chap to make it do-able. These are a couple of looks from the day. It’s rather rewarding doing Yanks in Brit Style tailoring. Sort of like missionary work. I hope to do more.


PS. Quote of day from my assistant as drove past Vallance Road, Bethnal Green and I remarked that this was where the Krays lived when growing up. “The Krays, the band?”,  she asked. No conception.

RAKE, Dolce and Ray-Ban.



Snuck a swift banter with Mr. Tolera during his offal inspired art exhibition opening (click) the other night in Soho. The exhibition was quite dark, as it was outside, so it’s hard to pick out details of camera shy Christos’ suit, but it looked pretty damn spesh regardless. Long socks were particularly interesting as were brief histories of various accoutrements from this notorious hat specialist. Never knowingly understyled, I give you a Christos on Bateman Street…


(click on links)

– ‘Burlington’ hat from Bates. I think it’s this chap anyway.

-1988 bespoke Gaberdine suit by Brian Brindle, with belted and box pleated back, patch safari pockets and wide pants. Brindle’s apparently an old Mod who actually invented flares. Tolera says he’s great to interview. “Used to be in Marylebone. Had a great record collection of soul etc but never really got on because he had a bad stutter. He was fine until you asked about money then he would stutter for ages.. Difficult….”. He’s got a web site but it appears to be just a white rectangle. Odd.

-A vintage Gallo sock! Christ Christos, the mind boggles, slightly.

-Watch is by H.M.T- Hindustan Machine Tools. Ditto. Don’t know how can be pilot’s without very big numerals, but still.

-Shoes by Pendwin, ‘For Men’.

Not much more Tolera-style cross reference, mainly ’cause he’s a vintage/bespoke kinda guy. Keeps one’s stance exclusive for sure. Gonna post back to back VIDEO STANCES with a fella who Christos used to be in a band with. Blue Rondo a la Turk. Do you know who it is yet?

STUBBS out/sat up in bed.



Flagrant abuse of date-scale protocol in broken three-piece.

Lets get one thing straight, Gandy looks great in his tailoring and denim ensemble, and its none of our business who he’s dating. However if we start letting this sort of size differential go at this stage, just where is it all gonna end? George Lamb (6’5″) rumping Kylie? Arnie bumming Little My from the Moomins (click) ? It’s simply bad art direction of a date, and these things matter. While Mollie from the Saturdays is certainly ‘cute’, she is just over half his height and less than one third his critical mass. As Gandy channels Clark Kent’s chest in slashed to the vest shirt (could have done with a stronger collar maybe), Mollie looks like a wee lace fairy. Totally different stories. Name goes into book. All that hanging about with the rough boys in Sicily, crushing fruit or mending fishing nets for Dolce is all well and good, but he should consider casting evening companions accordingly. A strapping fishing village lass from near Palermo for public engagements perhaps? Or make sure Mollie walks several paces in front and he stoops slightly when being papped. Dave, we’re watching you.

Met Gandy during cream tea at Claridges last week and have to say he’s utterly charming. Hardly touched his scones though. Maybe he’d had a big lunch. He’s obviously a bit of a sort, right, but he also dresses dead well, sans stylist. He knows what drops on a man-level: none of this men in colour-blocking shite with Gandy. Classic colour palette, elegant pieces and not too trussed up. Nice work Dave, but do try and remember – size matters. Or scale rather. He left without his macaroons. Attache-cased the lot. Had crushed macaroons for breakfast. Living the dream…

TS out.

Little My in vintage Sonia Rykiel.



Shot this dashing but laid back style merchant on The Dalston Roof Garden. Mixing it E8 style with Riviera chic plus extras. Thats how we like it in the East London sun, essence of ‘Day-Lyall’. The man is a genius womens fashion designer known not only for his extravagant accessory production but for his notorious haunt just up the Kingsland. I speak of the place they call VOGUE FABRICS (click). This is pretty undercover styling compared the night I met him down at his gaff. Mr.Hakarai, the floor is yours. Or rather the lawn…


…is mainly vintage, couture and self sourced, so linkage not poss’

-Givenchy shawl collar evening jacket. Couldnt find. SS collection quite apt though.


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