Archive for November, 2010

CAMEL COATS

Tuesday, November 30th, 2010

I’ve got the right raging hump. It’s this camel coat trend. I can’t really complain, I’m not making actual allegations. Fashion is what it is, but sometimes, just when you think you’re safe minding your own stylish business, it comes and takes one of your bleeding things.

I know who I am, Harry.

First tassel loafers are on every two bob little twat in Shoreditch, now the camel coat is on the specials list de jour. Drat.  Every joker is on it. Ruining it they are. Gucci’s show was great, thanks, but is that all it takes for you lot to all go and do something? NB. It is not about the short versions: they are for girls.

Gucci’s and a smart little camel coat at Gucci.

People keep coming up and admiring my camel coats. “I like your coat”, they say. Oh yeah, who told you to think that? Someone just wrote something about my camel coat, (thanks for that Moomin-Persian, it was very sweet- click).

Address my remarks?

I wear a single breasted  ’Covert’ style pale camel cashmere number from DAKS when they did a proper sharp runway collection, and a double breasted rich camel cashmere mix from Moschino which I bought on June 2nd 2005. I was wearing shorts when I got it, which is tricky, but I knew it was the future. Thus in Conduit Street began a long story that finished in another country at a christening in Ibiza held in Terry Thomas’s villa.

I need a bohemian atmosphere too.

My Mum has always liked my camel coats, she doesn’t care about trends, she just likes nice men’s stuff. I once shot my best pal smashing up a shop with a dustbin in a camel coat in 1998, a la Performance. RIP Bradley. I shall find, scan and post the image. Fashionable people didn’t like suits or tailoring of any sort back then. Such is fashion.

Anyway, thank goodness camel suave doesn’t work on that many of them, the budget jokers. Hopefully it’ll all blow over without too much damage.

Look (below), here’s another Chas who likes his Camel (not referring to Mils FYI). Turnbull&Asser is it son?

Someone just sent me this picture from a couple of years ago in the DAKS. Not exactly the attitude I normally role with, but at least not gurning.

Stubbs out coverting in camel regardless.




Vogue Fabrics

Friday, November 26th, 2010

Only have short time to tap in a few words on a new gaff I have found in the manor. Perhaps it’s the spiraling schedule of stuff going on since I first entered this new domain  that has consumed all of my time? That and the fact that I’ve had me Mum up to stay, followed by my sister Julie. Managed to do a fair bit with them too. Anyway, warning! This is not a family post.

Not got any Peroni then?

So back down at the Mangal the other Thursday, and I thinks to myself, I’ll venture down the Moustache bar that have been hearing about and spying, planning to continue the night’s theme of stark contrasts.  Was addressed by a beaming barman asking what I’d like to drink. We’re alone in a neat and thoroughly empty bar, much like a cross between a The Shining dream sequence and Cheers. I left and walked up Kingland Road.

A girl who resembled a marshmallow stripper with Tank Girls Barnet did swipe my James Smith & Sons whangee cane umbrella (click) from me and proceeded to ‘Chaplin’ it up and down the road. “This is how you wanna walk Dapper Dan, this is how you wanna walk!”,  she trilled. Then she invited me to her little club. £3 into her carrier bag and I trooped down the stairs.

Lyall.

At the bottom is a small lively little disco bar thing  going on, with a sign above the bar saying Vogue Fabrics. A friendly chap in fur hat and matching coat with fine moustache and matching beard greeted me by the bar. Lyall is both the proprietor and host, it appeared.  Marshmallow stripper’s identical twin sister was calling out instructions over the mic for semi advanced disco dance moves to a dozen or so attentive dancers, to a disco classic and high energy sound track. In formation they followed her every word. It was an interesting spectacle, not without style or comedy.

The view had something of Adam and the Ants Prince Charming video vs. Ashes to Ashes all being portrayed in a scene from Nathan Barley the movie. The dancers were earnest and bedecked in all manner of the latest garbs. Some of them looked good.

I got amongst it for a bit, sipping my rum and swigging my can of Becks, then I returned to the bar. Lyall is a v. interesting and charming chap. A style polymath of some note I’ll guess.  This place is very comfortable indeed. I needed a local, and I think I’ve found one.

Stubbs out. (not literally of course)

Vogue Fabrics is at 66 Stoke Newington Road, Dalston, see below. Dont all go down there, it’ll nause it right up.


Extreme Style Butlering

Saturday, November 13th, 2010

AND THE JOYS OF RAPID SCENE CHANGE

In the future when I look back and think to myself “You old idiot, what have you done with your time ?”, (quite possibly next June), I am determined to remember what a hoot I’ve been having of recent. The essence of my nouveau salad days is variety and speed of situation turn around. The perfect day has a tumbling roster of different scenarios and vignettes best viewed from a solo perspective. The night that preceded this is what I actually want to talk about, but can’t until get yesterday down adequately.

Sir Hardy relaxes at work and sets the pace for the modern styler

Friday was major day on a style-butlering level. I would bang on about it at length, but it might sound like I was showing off. It began at Hardy Amies with fittings for Lord O’Leary. My pal Don had his master tailor Pinot tweak a polka dot wool silk mix suit ready for tomorrows tele.  Tres elegant it looked too.

In solo formation, I moved swiftly up the Row to a local cup-cake shop via Hart and Tentis (picking up suitable shirt-age), to take coffee at Mistress Mingay’s style  commerce HQ. Here I found other of her operatives in full swing, including Clive Derby of Rake tailoring. Collected the smashing DB pinstripe Rake suit we’d had altered. Yes Mr.Clive! We’re digging your work big time. (see piece in today’s FT Life&Arts that includes Rake authored by me by clicking).


To go with both these fine examples of Brit’ suave,  I need footwear of worthy level. The  utterly devine Cleverley chestnut colour one piece closed lace ups are the most beautiful shoes I have yet to deliver to anyone. I shall get a picture today. George Glasgow was the conduit and I am very grateful indeed.  I have included a short film of him in his Cleverley shop shot this summer.

Once regaled of footwear excellence, shot off to meet agent Massey at Le Caprice. Told you it would sound like showing off.

My usual table at Le Caprice with Agent Massey

I think I might be spoiling DO’L for other shoes/stylist/worlds, but he’s had a tough week, so he deserves it. This is ‘work’ and not really what I am alluding to.

Rapid variation of scene was what I was trying to explain. I think it is the essence of staying happy for me. Last night was the grand opening of Salon QP (click), watch showcase and elevated horologic hob-nobbing fest. It was a coup on a British located watch exhibition level, and all the best bods were on board. Champagne and watch banter flowed. For ages. There’s only so much of this one can take without experiencing a ‘reversal’.

An ‘Addison airlift’ to The Mangal was required while I regained my bearings. Too much of anything for long becomes tiresome. Within twenty minutes and I had replaced Moet with Effes, canapes with Lamb fillet and could see clearly again my path. Re-booted and suited I bowled up the Kingsland Road to experience for the first time the infamous Moustache bar.


Testimony of this of the ‘Vogue Fabrics’  night spot in Dalston  shall follow shortly.

TS

PS. This  piece by me is out today in FT Life&Arts section, all about wearing separate jacket and trousers (click).



Swimming style & London Fields Lido

Wednesday, November 10th, 2010

Enrolled at London Fields Lido (click) today. Visited to swim last Monday, and have been four other times since. JW said that’s addictive behaviour. Perhaps, but there’s worse things, no? Swimming in the open air is brilliant. Especially exhilarating when important stuff is going on elsewhere in town. Swimming outdoors in the wind, rain, and leaves against  the backdrop of the art deco Lido is the perfect antidote to modern stress and all that. (Wish they’d fix the stop watch on the wall). Gonna take my sister Julie down there when she visits.

The proper swimmers wear hats. The proper girl swimmers wear costumes, not bikinis. Speedo is de rigueur. I wear Speedo Comme des Garcons (click).  Would be a shame not to. Once you squeeze on a rubber hat with a repeated Speedo logo in a signature Comme pattern on your head, you know you’re there to swim, not fanny about.

Those longer length very fitted shorts (see above) are called Jammers. I wear them too. They’re the way forward. Flapping around in baggy shorts is proper muggy. NB. I do not look quite like this (see above). A person has pointed out that when Hackney is over run completely by the bourgeois that they’ll all wear ‘nice’ trunks and swim well. Irrelevant. Speedo are an egalitarian thing and only £18 (click). Competent swimming is also not the preserve of the educated classes, anyone can do it. People frequently just choose KFC/BK, not ASA.


I also do not look like this, nor have I seen anyone wearing this combo, yet. Stylish swimming is about something other than Japanese design collaborations however. It’s about swimming well in the water. Not flat out, or semi-professionally,  but just without looking like a complete water-spanner. Sometimes I swim up behind a bloke and they are thrashing around with their legs like they are having a wild spasm. Meanwhile they’re ploughing away to little effect with the arms like a simpleton trying to fight off bullies in the playground. One shudders in the water in the hope that no such thrashing is going on in one’s wake. It is amazing how stupid they look. I think they should segregate the spanners into a little pool of their own. An extra lane in addition to the slow, medium, fast swimming lanes already in place. I go for medium pace, and am happy enough. Rather than splashing, calm reaching forward and stretching steadily is what appears to work. Not fighting the water like a frenzied buffoon.

I do have a problem with breathing out on the left side, so I don’t.  I did do 2.3k  today, (or 46 lengths). Feel like Tarzan now. Quite a camp, slight, Tarzan. Still am gonna take a course in the Shaw Technique (click) to ensure don’t have closet spanner status. “Grace and economy of movement” is what I fancy. A good look. That plus a bit of  Comme naturally.

This is what the Lido looked like before they tarted it up. Now it’s a different story.

Meanwhile, I am looking for this mystery swimmer (see below). Never spotted in East London, ever, but occasionally seen in Mayfair I believe, and usually not in swimming gear. She has a list of luxury swimming misdemeanours as long as her arm, (long), against her that need answering to. She also wears a bikini, usually Hermes, despite claiming she doesn’t.  The sooner she is marched down to Dover Street Market and Comme’d up the better. Please help track her down.

Stubbs out. (FS)


Emmett shirts, E.Tautz ties

Saturday, November 6th, 2010

Have had some shirts made for my client on the tele program. They are brilliant and am double envious. My man Nash from Emmett (click) made them. The tab fastening is what delivers a nipped in look around the tie knot. The Italian cotton is of a very high yarn count and feels creamy and delightful.

Best ties can find at moment are woollen ones, mainly from E.Tautz (click), see picture. A little wider and with a matt, textured finish. Not to be confused with knitted ties, which although OK, are not the forward looking story. Other good ties come from Hermes, Gieves and Dunhill, but E.Tautz are the best. To recap woollen ties are good, right?

TS      (Tie Spotter)