Archive for March, 2010

Ubiquitous Outerwear Epidemic

Wednesday, March 31st, 2010

A MESSAGE TO YOU RUPERT

NATHAN BARLEY : THE PROPHECY

(click on above, and here) (and here as it goes)

Jackets are utterly key. Not only a banner of style allegiance, but the first thing clockable in the street when walking about (looking at other men’s jackets), and hence a pivotal telegraph of taste and stance. Credible jackets are a must for a strong wardrobe.

There does come a point however, when no matter how good a piece is, integrity, nay, dignity becomes an issue. Such as hoards of complete idiots  wearing the same style jacket as you. Behold the Barbour epidemic of 2009/10:


Three out of five men in stylish  London are now sporting a quilted Barbour (or other Barbour style), without the slightest worry they look like mugs. This is the crux of what is so desperately wrong in menswear in London style. Literally all wearing the East London identikit look, all so very pleased with themselves.

This is a message to you Rupert: “You’ve all no idea why you’re doing this stuff you pillock, you’re just doing it. East London Style imbeciles, I’m coming for you. ”

Ahem, sorry about that.  Back to coats.  It was the same with Belstaff motorcycle jackets. Let’s all buy them and see if they’re still cool. Thought process when trend in full swing: Idiot No. 25,568  sees Barbours everywhere and thinks, “Must get self one of those quilted Barbour coats that am seeing everywhere, then will be cool. Might get self one of those woolly hats too”.  Gets coat,  gets gnome hat, goes around feeling cool. Brilliant: Another Shoreditch twat is born, (see Shoreditch Twat). How can you be happy with this?

Fashion’s amoeba think they are the informed few. (Never mind wax, we need a serum/antidote to this epidemic)


Sorry, coats and that… Barbour is a great brand which does fantastic outerwear, (I have two: the Cowan Commando and the Wax Flyer), but one can’t legitimately walk about the place in the same coat, all thinking you’ve tumbled cool. Which they do. They tend not go for the best ones either, but the very obvious options.

Barbours, fixed wheel bicycles, skinny jeans rolled right up your leg, little Dexy’s knitted hats, massive moustaches, check shirts, arm/neck fulls of tattoos… is it that easy? Do you just pick a couple of things from the Old Street style menu like trendy tapas and you’re done? Bollocks. Expect a purge.

(AM GONNA ADD SUITABLE IMAGERY OVER WEEKEND IN BETWEEN BOUTS OF ACTUAL WORK)

Many of them are just randomly picking elements with no clue of what they represent. I’m seeing tassle loafers with almost gothic style legging jeans, and moustaches/beards teamed with quiffs. Wrong. Chris Morris’s Nathan Barley was the prophecy and it’s come true, except the clothes are far sillier than on the TV program.

Am going to deconstruct this sartorial pic’n’mix humiliation over the bank holiday. There will be a Style&Error questionnaire to discover if you, or anyone you know is a Bibble (see Nathan Barley).

Bibbles everywhere, Style & Error is looking at you and laughing its snaffles off.

TOM STUBBS.


CP Company AW 2010

Friday, March 26th, 2010

UNDER THE RADAR CAR COAT AND BICYCLE WITH GEARS.

We in fashion are on to Autumn Winter 2010. Don’t worry yourself, it doesn’t change the weather or ought. Means have been looking at winter clothes though. C.P.Company (click) , the Italian garment explorers and prestige casual wear governors are one of my favourite things on the planet, bar nothing. Their outerwear is exemplary. Coats like this one are particularly crucial, as pedestrian men are inclined to notice one brand or model of coat which is good, then all happily wear it in mindless droves. Look at what’s happening with Barbour quilted jackets right now. Think also about Belstaff belted motorbike jackets. The bovine outerwear idiots will never get into this level of gear (I hope). See ‘Ubiquitous Outerwear Epidemics’ post where this wrong shall be exploded. 

This car coat/cinched waist explorer padded affair is the absolute lick in my book. Why? The shape is brilliant, particularly vital is the cinch. Most blokes never get that. This must be pulled in. Also hood design and patch pockets. The fabric is v. subtly brilliant: delivering semi dad car coat vibe, but the handle and look is actually v. superior. Properly under the radar stuff. It feels so good to wear, don’t exactly know why. It’s a connoisseur’s piece, and most men wouldn’t get it.

C.P. Company: Connoisseur’s car coat style

Also key however is that is costs £524, and there are only a couple in the country. This detail keeps hoards of budget demi-trendies from even thinking about buying it. When the trendies deck themselves out in Guccis and C.P. Company, am joining the Hari Krishna’s. (Who incidentally have remixed their classic Hari Hari, Hari Rama to great effect I noted in Soho on Monday. Yes, the egg yoke lads).

Thanks for the assistance in filming Lydia. Please try to laugh at me a little less in future. Can’t you see this is a serious business? C.P. Company has also produced this bike (see film) . Like it a lot too. Great look, colour scheme and handle bars, plus has gears. You fixed wheel mugs are on my list too and I’m coming for you. Bring on the revolution.

COMRADE STUBBS.

NB. Dedicated C.P.  Company fans should know that it has been sold to an American company that produce Eddie Bauer. I’m not over the moon about this, but can’t work out if will change anything or not.

C.P. Company images: AW 2010


Goggle jacket AKA The Mille Miglia


Move over (East), Darling.

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

DOORBELLS, RENT BOYS, SLUM DWELLINGS, DEITIES  & OTHER HOLES

Visited Dennis Publishing on Cleveland Street today in Fitzrovia, passing Cleveland Dwellings. It was here in 1889 Prince Albert Victor, son of Prince of Wales and second in line to the throne, was caught blatantly rumping rent boys in the ‘Cleveland Street Scandal’ male brothel affair. This had some contributory destabilising factor in triggering the Jack The Ripper cover up murders. Fact. Its still pretty ‘down town’ there now. Look at their set up with the doorbells. Authentically slummy, no?

Bell bottoms

Meanwhile, just got thumbs up from the surveyors in E5. No such door bell turn out for my new posh place, which incidentally is called ‘Lavinia’. It’s carved into the very stone. Is the name Lavinia, (daughter of Latinus and Amata) a little poncey to put on my address and calling cards? I like the grandeur but worry it might sound like my drag name. Tom Stubbs, ‘Lavinia’, etc..

Keeping it real, E5 home help

On a very different plain, in West London, slum dwelling interior news wise , I was testing the bathroom ceiling to see how long it had before it caves in, when it caved in. The terrorists sleeper cell upstairs has been trickling ‘water’ through for a while, bless them, and it’s caused this. Luckily, the water goes straight down the toilet, the lid of which fell off the previous month. I do count my blessings in this area. Upstairs crew been dragging sacks of ricin about more and more of late, and am worried the whole thing might go up or down depending on what gives. Still, five weeks and counting before am out of this dilapidated semi-slum. MI5, expect a call boys. MFI, also expect a call from a very shaky skinflint dilapidated landlord.

Hole west london scene is over

Talking of government bodies, in true fashion style, I’ve gotta say “Thank you Darling” , and hail a big shout out to man like Al, The Chancellor. He abolished ‘Rinse Duty’ for first timer buyers under £250K.  Yes rude boy! My mind instantly worked out what £2,500 was in Gucci loafers. However will spend on the ‘walk down’ wardrobe/cellar am devising. As an eminent cigar smoker once said, I love it when a plan comes together.

Distressed accessory trend continues

MODERN TOSS

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

BEST OF ‘THIS IS BASEL WATCHES’

Sunday, March 21st, 2010

Actual product based coverage begins here. These are watches I like from Basel.  Some are fantasy pieces, but we’re talking aspiration, right?  Will aim to keep it real too. In no specific order, these watches gave me horologic wood in.  Some I’ve not got images for yet, so they’ll have to come later. Some PR’s still pretending to work in Basel perhaps. (click on headings for links).

BULGARI

Bulgari – Daniel Roth ‘Power Reserve’

Bulg’s bought this company and now produces a line in using their  operation. Really liking the visuals frankly,  v. unusual case shape, brilliant display layout. This one has a stupid tourbillon in the middle and am sure is one without. Gonna find. Think a power reserve is one of the most key functions one could wish for.

ZENITH

Zenith El Premiero Chrono

OK the El Premiero movement is astonishing with 36,000 oscillations a minute, but you can’t see it until now.  You can hear it a bit, (click  to hear), but now can actually tangibly witness it. The second hand looks mesmerisingly animated as it flys round at a rate of one rotation ever 10 secs. Never seen a hand act like that before. Mental. That’s why its called  ’Striking seconds’. Also love what am calling tri-colour sub dials on chrono. Timing fennel will never be the same again.

HARRY WINSTON

Harry Winston Avenue Square

Harry Winston have the chicest stand I have decided. That aside was very taken with new versions of Avenue Square. Might put white and yellow gold versions up depending on how dedicated am feeling.  The colour scheme is double subtle and their over lapping art deco circular motif works so well. Observe  the power reserve indicator and mood phase. How stylish is that design? Good to see they’ve made the effort at 43k CHF.  Nice one, Harry.

CUERVO Y SOBRINOS

Cuervo Y Sobrinos ‘Prominente’

Completely seduced by Cuervoy y Sobrinos. A Cuban Swiss crossover house hailing from a pre-revolution Cuba. Brand is steeped in history and romance, resurrected in last six years or so.  Think was most atmospheric apt all show.  My fav is the Prominente with its fancy, trippy, lugubrious numerals,  and plan to get one to go with my Sexton suit. The Topido Historiodor Seminal (checking spelling) is one in video and is based on an old piece they found with C y S workings and design, thus validating a brand some people have cast aspersions on in the past. M.D Massimo Rossi  is the boy, and am digging his approach. He likens the T.H.S to a vintage Blackberry He also gave me massive cigar, but that has not affected my journalistic eye as already sucked in.


PATEK PHILIPPE

Patek Annual Calendars, the catchily named 5205 G and 5960.

Patek Phillipe have finally yielded up their images. The Annual Calendar is a remarkably special, complicated watch. Here’s two versions including the new chrono model. The many features are so neat and precisely delivered: Utterly reserved elegance and functionality. My favourite detail is the white second hand. Does that make me a bit dim? Don’t care. Moon phase vs. Chrono? Check the power reserve on the chrono and the single red second hand. But wait, oh the pretty stars in firmament of the MP. A very tricky way to spunk 54 large, no? Liz, do you do test drives?

HERMES

Arceau Petits Chevaux
Cape Cod Quadrige

Am so damn into enameling. Its the next big luxury watch story. Believe me. Only problem is, its extraordinarily spenny. £60K ish each for these babies. Some one really special and key does this work and she’s the only one who can. Getting info on her. Love these graphic designs.

BELL & ROSS

Bell&Ross Vintage BR 123 Carbon

 Something new and really good from B&R, the Vintage Carbon. Still tons of B&R handwriting, tipped hands etc., matt black finish, and familiar numerals, but a new shape. V. attainable bit of hardwear for £ 2,600, and not quite as obtrusive as the big square BR01. 

STUBBS OUT.