Morning Style Mongers. Back from Milan Menswear shows and Geneva S.I.G.H watch fete just in time to do Matey-Off-The-Telly for the National TV Awkwards last night, live from the Monglenium Dome. Didn’t come via cable car, as per tradition, as have done my back in, proper style. Lugging the 28kg Globe-Trotter case wouldn’t have done it any good at all. Had to come by car, then DLR, like a pedestrian (bailed from the Addi as the A12 was on melt-downs). So, so prefer an air-lift into work. It’s exhilarating, and a correct place to think and ‘be’, up there in the sky in the wind. Also like a nice blowy* at the mo’. Did I mention this? Regardless, this Richardsonesque pose was the most erect I’ve managed in days. Its not been ideal on an elegance level one iota. The whole ‘sartorial-singlet’ look been touting depends on a most erect stance. Hunched over and hobbling sunday in Milan I became a cross between Rigsby off-of Rising Damp (click) & Rab C. Nesbitt (click). Not a style pinnacle by long hobble. O’Leary’s look however, I was doppio gratified with. Hardy Amies Signature Bespoke suit in brown mohair.
O’Leary in ‘Signature Bespoke’ Hardly Amies at The Dome.
Matey O.T.T is in Emma Willis ivory silk pique shirt (which is properly lush), vintage dress studs (tiny gold/M.O.P numbers), and (my) Hermes bow tie. Want that back btw, Dermot.
On stage at the Dome.
Am rather impressed by Hardy Amies Signature Bespoke offer. Cut in bespoke manner with unique pattern by un-bettered Head-Cutter Will Adams, the thing gets turned around and assembled, off shore/off-Row as it were and comes back to Saviles with just the hand finishing and tweaks needing to be done. Handy, no? Bout £2,200 for a suit. Have tested this service several ways and its pretty damn good, if you’re asking me. Also, Adams is exemplary for the record.
Talking of Will, will get London Collections:Men and Milan tings reviewed this week, I swear down. Roger?
Stubbs (laid flat) out.
Note. The Blonde below is Exley; The Entourage glamour quotient on long legs. Joe Mills took the shot. Or maybe did the hair, and the wifey Dee took the shot. Cant remember. Was too busy trying not to stoop. Also note, there’s actually a little bloke behind Dermot, ‘operating’ him. Thats how this is all done, you know. Who knew?
PS. There is much ceiling based news, but so much plaster and yet so little thyme.
Buono Sera Moda Diavolos. In Milan, doing the Moda Scappare, oi! So zera time to update on London Corlectionis. Excusi. Should really be looking after my family, but it appears my prioroties are in style&luxury. Shameful. This is my newly set cornice, though.
Not dropping no shirt and ties stances this time around. None. Not one pocket snivel in my Globe-Trots did I pack. Didnt even bring enough polo necks to go round the tour. It’s all about sartorial singlet style, the way am channelling it. Might be wrongness, but am feel deep winter Ska suitable. Surely is not a book-able offence, even at my ripe age? Regardless of protocol, shout out to all you believers from the lesser known Eritrean/Muslim district of Milano. Yes, Horace! Keeping the faith.
Some wicked safari suit action in this video. Couple of vests, but not enough…I’ll lay some style on thee when I can. Really I will. So, so much to talk about. But not just yet.
PS. Favourite style story of day involves one style&luxury luminary who’s case got lost on way over. This failed to scotch his lust for fitness, so he hit the gym first thing this morning in his boxer shorts and Berluti hiking boots. The ones based on Gretta Garbos preferred ones. Too, too good a scene not to mention.
Evening Style Fundamentalists.Styled myself into a bit of a corner for the mo’, so can’t update thee on what went off at LC:M from my perspective. Give me a tick and I’ll lay down what mattered to ‘our thing’ at LC:M. Manolo’s new shoes were rather good. Some properly long ones, too.
Man in corner, Manolo Blahnik, returns from successful fishing expedition in buoyant form.
Long boots that is. Manolo was so well turned out, and a proper hoot to talk to. He actually did a ‘my bum looks big in this’ routine, and it was hilare. Look at his violet tweed check Anderson&Sheppard three piece from 1986, ffs. Lovely. Little bow tie, cashmere scarf… lovely outfit. Blahnik is a proper Style Monger. Remember what was chatting regarding disregarding elements of the over-done, frumpy, over exposed male finery for LCM? Like shirts and ties and pockets splatters and all those strapers*? Well, busted singlets on two days and didnt get arrested. Must be fine, right?
The Vagrant Motson look.
This Sunday stance is a Zegna sheepskin trench, Piombo jacket, Sunspel Bretton singlet with Gucci suede retro snaffles with webbing, natch. Later in the week, last night at The GQ Hakkasan dinner I wasnt wearing a shirt either (click). Am living the singlet life.
Cornice at “No.1 London” venue for Savile Row bash.
Having my cornices moulded and installed this week. And das ceiling Rose. Was going low key classic Victorian, but now seen this, having a re-think. Might go guilt. The address of this gaff is ‘No1., London’. Thats it. Exclusive, non?
PS. From on-going GQ speech onslaught: Tracy Emin is a crashing-bore-hole**.
Evening/Morning Style Mongers. The London Collections:Men (click) klicks off for me tonight with The Rake magazine’s drinks bash at The Claridges. Always a chic thrill that one. So good it’s good not to drink in case ya miss a moment of clarity with a tailoring luminary, or similar. Then again, its a work do, and its good not to be too stiff with your colleagues, right? One might miss a claret and a moment of lunacy with fellow masthead dweller. “I’ve simply had nothing made” one remarked in shamed admission to me referring their tailoring style roster for the LC:M spell. A ghastly scene of abject sartorial neglect, indeed.
A pattern emerging through Le Fumoir. Note matching, jacqurd La-de-da and beard.
But actually some sartorial neglect is what we could all do with fostering a touch. Am doppio fed up with my own hackneyed, over conscious use of shirt/Peckham/pocket snizzles. Have been for a while*. Gonna neglect all sorts of previously well maintained areas. Thinkin’ bout a couple of new, newish codes for the LC:M duration. Which is four days now btw style fiends. Four longish days. Might just loose my shirt or two, like an ageing, hirsute Pete Murphy.
The mind Bogliolis. Boglioli SS15
I’d drop a hat, but my hair’s just getting too, too big, and too blowy (in most places) to be wearing one. Am going big on blowing. Oh yes. Its all down to that Joe Mills of Joe & Co (clicky) and his Kevin Murphy Rough Rider. Man don’t cut. Man art-directs Barnets. I slip by his Soho drum for a mid-afternoon blowy when in The Metropolis at the mo’. Loving his work. Need a dryer in da Merc. Talking of which, I think this time, I might be most excited about working/rolling with Mr.Newton, my driver, for four days. The Mercedes Benz S Class is a doppio-mod-luxe-boon to my LCM scene. Trust me, its got the lot, so much boot space is essentially a mobile lock-up for the duration. But its Mr.Newton that takes it up a notch further. He’s an exemplary driver and rolling concierge. Mr.Newton used to escort heads of state. Now he’s ferrying heads of hair in a state. HashtagClimbdown. At least his ride is fully operative.
LC:M Lincoln Continental.
Could don a dressing gown over the top of normal garb, in the back of the ride. Not so much like you not stepped out of a salon, but you’d stayed plotted at home under the dryer. Gowns been looking strong to me.
Dress Gown To Earth Fridays.
Maybe is the new way to wear tailoring. I’ve seen evidence. Or maybe just forget to shirt up. I’m living the Singlet Life. When I can.
Starring out of the French windows in a singlet, it’s late late, now Max Rhinehardt has gone**, feel like if I was ever going to, I might just see a ghost tonight. Not drunk for a week. Not slept for one either. Maybe that’s it. Copy frenzy 2015 is O-Double-On. Its like writing is my actual job. It’s so calm in your head with no drink, no? No people, no engagements. Not seen a soul I know since NYsD. Cant last, but its so, so calm. Maybe it’s just the time of night. Or maybe it’s the time of man.
PS. Just couldn’t help putting Joni on the end. Her codes’ so far from LC:M. Love Joni. 1970 feels somehow significant. Cant think why. And with that, I admit, I don’t know who I am, but am gonna get my soul relatively free, in style terms.
Perhaps camp out on the land with a nice dressing gown for example.
Yoghurt Gowney Junior. Massimo Piombo SS15
PPS. There used to be a night time, ‘cool’, cultural TV program called “01 For London” with Richard Jobson and Magenta Divine, I think. Actually liked it. This was before all this 0171/0181 caper came in. Then went. What happened to old Jobbo, eh? And Wall-eyed-Madge too?
*Almost peeved that have amassed hundreds of amazing ones. Still, are good for use on clients who’ve not caught up yet. And for actually blowing ones nose in abject jacquard luxury.
** From the BBC Radio 3 you understand. Not my bed chamber.
Afternoon Style Mongers. There’s alot to get through already this year. What first? Savvy-Sports-Luxe needs proper explanation and demonstration. Especially in light of getting openly lampooned by a Troupe of genuine surly Cockneys while at the Norbital party. Walked into their midst in full griege anorak/cuffed-bottom-melange-total-sport-casual stance with grey/tonal antic-goat-skin tassel loafer Car Shoe (click)… “Look! He’s gone to fetch the morning water from the camp site pump!” was the main thrust of barrage. Maybe it’s the seafood diet from an early age (as Don Stubbs claimed) but they’re an accurate bunch when getting down to abuse lyrics. Seems perhaps Savvy-Sports-Luxe lacks a particular gravity of dignity/occasion/structure; I’ll come back to S.S.L, but for certain scenes, alas Maxi-Marl-Syndrome does not cut it. In which case, lets all do Safari, yeah? Surrey-Safari would have cut it ni-cely New Years Eve for me. Yves has gotta be the urban poster boy for Safari, no? Get some music on first right now though, or its just not the same, see below.
The guns of Saint Laurent.
The guns, the drums, the location should get us up to speed. Micks lapels arent doing too bad either, and again, those stage moves he’s winding could be useful, no? The party The Stones are at is almost right set for Safari Chic. Add in a bit of The Great Beauty style pool rave (click-go one minute in) and we’re there. Keep the noise, keep moves, then think Safari.
If all the Identikit Hipster Clones thought Safari but kept their beards, it’d be like It Ain’t Half Hot Mum crossed with Castaway round here. But realistically this aint one for the trendies. Which in turn interests me a lot. Is it a red-herring trend or is it a go-er? So for Safari so far, put the track on , and consider it. Especially as per my HTSI prediction of March 2012 (clicky), Safari is now ‘a thing’ proper. Or could be a thing, at least. I rather like the look of it, but it must been done in modern, deft manner. Incongruous weather might be the UK issue, so lets not get all khaki-ed up just yet. Maybe its a chic-travel look in effect? It’s not all about khaki either btw.
Richard James Desert Rat show SS15
Its really about patch, military flap pockets, and epaulettes too, working in crisp smart & smart casual looks. They’re getting stuck on the outside of tailoring and totes changing the accent. ‘Smart action’ is the feel. Burberry did it in all manner of suedes. Looked pretty pretty good as it goes. Hats derailed for the straight thinking Style-Monger, but the Tr/wendies loved it right up. Not showing you suede options though. Nope.
Burberry Prosum SS15.
Dunhill’s whole collection is looking very good now, thanks to new Creative Director/similar-title John Ray. His take on Safari is thus very good. Should include more images, but don’t want to be an image drag, no way. These pockety linen ‘leisure shirts’ in two or four pocket formats, worn with stuff underneath, maybe knits/tees/singlets, look like one nice way into this look. Also a neat smart pant help, especially if worn with no collar/shirt. That might be the thing. Am giving it some serious thought though, as grinding out a column for The HowToSpennyIt. Starting to have doubts looking out at the drizzle.
Really gotta give this some more thought before the Spring comes and looks have gotta get dropped for real, but am interested in potential Safari Chic. Alternatively, could get tailoring Doge Sexton to make me a suit in khaki cotton drill with patch pockets. That’d work double well you know. Almost Moores Bond meet Bryan** during his uniform period.
Rog’ in Hayward in Octopussy.
In light of Bryan’s glue-grooving the other night, did we mention walking in incongruous style glue yet? I inadvertently did it the other day down Cricketfield Road. Its when things are so wrong, you get glued up trying to walk. It was so stylistically stodgy out there in fur and cashmere at 2pm. I had no idea would be so strong. Had to bail. I didnt mention the new night Pimp-Flash story? Was away for a little while back in December with no Comms., so there are some updates required. But will have to explain when not in Safari mood. This post so needed a musical theme, going off to expand that despite impending d-line doom. I hope you did put it on. Its the first new popularist track to go in first playlist of the New Year. Attitude starts here. This is the ‘B’ version of the video. More intimate I feel. More like the vista from the disco/conservatory back in Norbiton. Play ‘em both at once. Its fucking chaos.
Right Style Fiends, completely naused my schedule now, to little avail. Now got obsessed with Start Me Up off Tattoo You and am doing warm-up/made-up aerobics in blue O.B.s and blue stripe singlet. Wish was kidding. Sure don’t bode well for the working year. I hold you lot largely to blame, but will get back and do more S.S.L and Incongluity Stances later on, Roger that?
Stubbs out, but always game.
** Ferry, obvs.
PS. from NYE. Shout out to my pal Micky Richards of the Norbital Sound System. He played E2-E4 in its entirety while we warmed up, despite some heckling initially from non-believers. He reported Louis Vega had dropped it as the warm up song at some do in LDN a long while ago, playing about 25 mins of it. Interesting, no? This Thin White Puke bloke’s tranced right out on it below. Think he might have done one of those new PGS Superman E’s. He’s a brilliant lad. Know him. Welsh. He’s about to go right off on one though. Tafari that is.
PPS. Lyall is doing a The Great Beauty party somewhere nuts. Be blown if not gonna do Safari Chic for that. If invited that is.