STANCE STALKER

Evenign Style Mongers. How is it a g’wan? Am slipping out shortly in the Hackney Friday night do get myself some fresh, stranger Style Stances. Quite keyed up for it as it goes, as it could be rubbish- in which case some of plans would be a trifled scuppered. Adrenaline is good. A plan is good. Mangal is good, by way of self reward.

‘Style Stance’ Stalker Stance, with C.P.Company cinched padded coat and DAKS cash’ scarf.

This my current Stance Stalker Stance am busting, but thinking might not have the right accent to get the Friday night crew on board with ‘working’ with me.

Jonthan Richman Singing bout bars and dancing.

If fancy it post Mangal, might slip down Lyalls gaff/Vogue Fabrics Dalston. Wont dance though. Honest.  

Stubbs out.

 

 

STYLE STANCE NO.47 – MR. MARKO RIGHO

Evening Style Merchants. Shot this Style Stance of artist and photographer Mr.Righo (click) on the corner of Jermyn and St.James while between Emma Willis (clicky) & Lock&Co. Hatters (clickmans). Its been half a decade since done one of these videos and as shot on iphone this ones come out massive. Maybe thats good as Marko is 6’8″. Those old dears I hired as extras worked ever so well, am dead pleased. Thanks girls. 

 

Righo’s ‘Volume Teal Trench Stance’ was a good one to return to, and shall avoid return of the Mac lyric as best I can. Forgot to ask him a couple of things, such as what does he call this look, but can fill that in later maybe. Details I am strongly diggin’  include slim belt with pleat and of course tripple-teal with black foil flex including teal almond rocks! Too good. Full marks Marko. Imagine it with the green Bowie Lock Fedora. Imagine. Now gotta work how to make this go on the Instagram. Busy night, non?

Stubbs out.

 

THANK GOD FOR THE DRIZZLE/M-65 CHIC

Morning Style MongersGorgeous morning. The rain has stoppped. Am gonna take to the newly washed streets shortly. For a run, but then later on the new hunt for fresh Style Stances. “Bores, skunk merchants, buggers, queens, fairies..” and thats just the last of the fashion press open days am attending.. well venal. Aside from stalking the streets of the Metropolis, been thinking bout Taxi Driver a lot recently as just written something on cinched-waist* field jackets inspired by the M-65 style Travis Bickle famously busts in the film. That and the music is haunting me. Love the music.   

Naughty Trav’ in M65, uncinched.

Didnt wanna totally distract from the Bernard Herrmann soundtrack, which is thoroughly brilliant, by putting Travis’ monologue verison down first- as is also double poweful. Tried to describe the ebb and flow of Bernards track. Bit like washing waves. Throbbing, unduleating. Then Holden pointed out its like passing cars, too. 

This clip is a little bit of a naff pastiche visually compared to the film, but the music is bit I want to play ya. Does managed get most of the great style moments in there too, so lets allow it. Meanwhile, here’s some of the great moments from my research into whats outstanding in the field field. 

This is my shot of a Kitsune chambre take on the field. This is such a wicked piece and only bout £320. Too, too chic.

Also have stuck a few other clips up, couldnt help it. Too morrish not to. Dont watch/listen if dont fancy. 

More field reporting; am super impressed by Mehmet Ali’s first collection for his brand MEHM (click). No time to bang on now, so have a shufty at his site. Clothes are really super crisp, clean and good. Lovely hand, informed cuts, bang on fabrics.  Yes Mehmet.

MEHM ‘dry hand’ verison- another properly wicked piece-shall ellaborate at some point..

Paul Smith SS17 mainline cupro number worn under tailoring.

Am gonna take to the mean streets of E8/E5 soon and get crack-a-lacking on this Stance thing. Wonder if I should don a field bracket for the missions? Maybe bit cold at mo’. Wonder if Scorsese would consider doing Uber Driver? Just a thought. 

Canalis was a major luxe-take on the genre.  Glove tanned’ lambskin, batched dyed in barrels by hand. The result is totes dream to handle. Went on to say “The utilitarian status of field is underpinned by its pockets, and is a strong reason why so appealing to men. They makes field jackets effectively statements about being ready and equipped. Canali’s flaps are un-finished raw edges, cut, hand dyed then waxed to create a smooth edge, with the imprint of the popper showing through the hide”, but largely overwrote so can stick it up here, I hope.

Canali leather field thang SS17.

Stubbs out&about.

PS. So much more needs to be added to this, but using the just get it up- worry later policy, here it is. More from YMC to come, too..

  • HowToSPendIt Editor GdB banned me from using term ‘cinched‘ so plan to rinse the hell out of it here. Been saying it for donkeys years.

one to three, the crew is call YMC!

This Ralph Polo’s one, a late entry.

RETURN OF THE STANCE

Evening Style Mongers. Its been a long time, I shouldnt have left you, without the odd stance to step to…Went out twice last week. Twice! Hermes bash Wednesday in Selfridge Hotel/Carpark, Stella McCartney gig-show at Abbey Road Studios the next night. Thats me done for a month. Regardless, on both nights a young person came up to me and asked “are you Tom Stubbs/Style&Error man?” Different ones, mind. They were both fans of the video Style Stance, believe it or not. Been toying with re-working the idea, and these boys have given me the charged that I need. Thank you ChrisAmfo (click) for one. Its on. Am planning the return of the Stance. The temptation to post up Mark Morrison is almost overwhelming. 

Here’s some vintage Stances to remind you lot what they are.

No.17, Mr. Chris Sulivan. 

Cant belive even managed to even embed this thing five years on. Doppio yay. Writing some more stuff in this space as you read… really I am.

Stubbs out/at it. 

PS. Couldnt help this..take it Mark.

Shout out to my mans dem from the Loaded times when used to shout this song out every issue. Those were the days.

 

SLASH QUOTIENT

Evening Style Mongers. Likely am erring more on style than error as am compelled toward slashed front shirt style in recent years. Really am so digging  the unfastened look though. Finding sartorial shirt and ties rigs too, too straight by far*, and now approaching some of the gorgeous printed silk shirt numbers am coverting, simply cant help but wear undone to one extent or other. What extent is what need to address; The #slash-quotient. Below is my client, Actor Luke Evans, in todays Telegraph wearing printed silk Ferragamo in the Bulgari boutique on New Bond, featuring Bulg’ kettle and necklace. Sternum height is clearly alright, agreed?

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Luke Evans in Ferragamo silk shirt & Bulgari Octo, plotted in the Bulgari boutique-shot by Jon Gorrigan (click).

Obviously slashed silk works rather well on smouldering film stars/Roman jewellery house ambassadors••••. Film stars aside though,  I’m totally feeling the open front thing for us normal fellows. Premediated slash of the right shirt says open for leisure business. Caution however as cannot appear as discarded tie scenerio, like some cut-away buisness bloke on way home after couple of pints. The sartorial equation so needs breaking up intentionally, for day and certainly for evening.  So many men dress for an office job when they’re going out these days. Oddly misguided, dull and prosctiptive. Forget sprezzatura with your splayed tie blades, get your chests out, for the lads. Think of it as sartorial shirt dergulation.

Trad’ business dressing with shirt buttoned up and a tie needs to check itself, anyway, in light of a banking crisis and rampant freudulent practice conducted by ‘straight up’, buttoned up tie-merchants. Note. Policiticans too, the standard bears of duplicity keep their shirts on, buttoned up, alot of the time. Open is open and honest. Consider that, ‘mankind’.

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Human Racey- Bradley Cooper in American Hustle

Slashed shirt style is suitable bit of casual wear window dressing for a necklace/chain/pendant action, which am also vigourously promoting. One does need to keep half an eye on you’re pec-to-derby ratio though, but surely this is a positive incentive. Man cleavage only requires a few sets of press-ups & a couple of planks to achieve. Pec-diktat: Simply repeat action daily x 5 to failure. Easy, maintane for 10 years-ish. Oh, and stop drinking lard. Doppio easy.

Slashed is only way to do patterned shirt with spirit, too. Looking for better pattern ref, but while searching am noting Ben Cobb, Editor in Chief of Another Man, (click), and our pal Luke Day, Fash’ Director from GQ Style, are major slash protags’.

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Ben Cobb, Another Man. Soz Getty, but what am I gonna do?

An open shirt also functions on some smashign  retro references levels too, from “70s Medalion Man”** (think American Hustle for more recent nudge) to louche Rock’n’Roller, a la New York Dolls. Or Dave Bowie for that matter. Does help to be Glam Rock star in full flushes of going fabulous-mascu-mental, mind. Agreed. Does help to be hairless, too. Myself am olding, and am hirsuite (but have clippers and will travel. No.2/No.3 route***). Currently am aiming for Lieutenant louche-heart but fear actually achieving Captain of the Darts Team night big out in Marbella. I’ll take it. Gotta do what you’ve gotta do, and besides, am coming to terms with being a fantasist. Surely another big slice of dressing is propelled by fantasy. Fantasy and entertainment.

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David Johansen & rest of Dolls with chalk-striped Don Steele

Entertainment might indeed kick in for those around us slash-participants, again, all part of the melee amuse. Issues ’bout age appropriatness do matter. I am sure. I should take heed and pack it all in perhaps, but sort of dont care a mo’. While the young go mental and dress up for Hallowean week, does it matter what some old bloke/s are doing in their spare time?  So at ease and unbutton, should you fancy it fellas. Its only really my pals and the odd waitress/waiter that have to put up with it. Besides, am a good tipper. Also my neighbours at 56 bus stop. And my long suffering style team. But they’re hired on basis of being tolerant and accepting to boundary pushing suitability. A sort “help the aged (into their finery) package deal”.

Talking of boundary pushing, was waiting for pal Lyall Hakaria (click) to come to arrive at last Friday to go off together to the Matches Off White Virgil thing down off Mare Street at The Laundery Building. It was well urban for a Matches bash. Rather glad not competing in that young jean pool. Thought I was instead flossin’ fractionally with medium/large slash Moschino print to 2nd/3rd rib, teamed with mink fur trim choc-cash Gieves overcoat. Then Lyall turns up at Lavinia Villa with full mink fur coat and fully zero-shirted torso. Totes slash-trumped by Hakaria. 

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Slash & tickle (waxed tache ref). Evening wear too benfits from good firm fracture down the front slash could be the crack you’re scoping for.

Hakaria was also in vintage 70s black flares, Balenciaga heels, 90’s bins (which naughty Henry Holland dubbed as SpiceGirl chic later at Richard Nichols wake at Fancy. For some crowds, bitchyness is never out of place, mourning, noon or night), and black velvet shawl jacket he ran up himself.

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Summer slashing, with Luke Day, GQ Style, and Ben Cobb, again.

While we’re doing chest chic, I also dig a singlet under tailoring or jacket, which might have mentioned several times here before. Works just nice with a chain, too.  Below is the boy Evans doing it with Sunspel singlet and Kilgour basket weave shawl stand collar, also by Jon G, from our weekend Telegraph shoot.

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Luke Evans in Bulgari shoot from todays Telegraph.

And below is that Dave dropping the combo in Heroes video film.

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David Bowie singing Heroes

Need some feedback and some clear thought. Perhaps. On a glamour rock star in face paint,  bare chest is edgy. On a simmering actor slashed is sexy. On middle ages style-jokers is a tricky, treacherous thing to be trifling with. For now, its on though. Current slash-quotient is medium-to-low, as editing this on way to job and actually in a singlet.

Misguided Rock’n’roll beligerance 20 years late pehraps? Cant exactly finish this comment off right now, as on way to Mangal due to super hunger. Grilled meat and salad is pretty Derby proof stuff, but maybe should ask the Turks that run Mangal what their take is. Those boys know their way round a slash shirt featuring gold as well as a furnace and some hot skewers.

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Bare styling a g’wan: David Johansen on a sofa, goes all the way.

Stubbs out.

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Hakaria on a bench, at Matches, goes some of the way.

 

*now have all my ties and pocket snotters in a vintage leather case in plasticue bags of like stories. Use as mobile styling archive and like very much. Not gonna wear ’em for  a while. Maybe next funeral. 

** Eighties joke lyric.

*** not a euphemism 

****Note. Luke also in Dolce brown strides (and Ferragamo jodhpur boots) but Dolce threw such a hissy fit ’bout not being full look had to remove credit. Molto amusso.

L&T2

Lyall&I keep it properly urban.