ASSOULINE SCENE

Afternoon Style Mongers. There’s almost certainly gonna be some blog action here, later. This is my new book from Assouline, too special looking to even unwrap.

Assoline wrap

Book on stool.

The red’s really special too. By the way. Buy The FT today for How To Spend It. My Sharpener column is proper banging style.

Stubbs out.

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ON THE ROW’D AGAIN

Morning Style Fundamentalists. Working on double significant shoot all day this week, today as well, and hence found self on The Row again for first time in a while. Stick on The ‘Heat boys below and gently simmer a couple of things that I saw. Partic’ keen on the scene at the Kilgour.  Par-fucking-Tic.

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Granite City: Ks Birds of Paradise pony on my Columbia Road ones. They’re so gloriously succulent-alpha. Paradise pony.

The lines here are nuts. Brandelli’s smashed it with this new chapter of K. Its a new level of tailoring angles, proportion and purity. No messing. Add in some extremely good fabrics, then, shit the bed, step back, this tailoring is working on serious new levels.  There are some fundamentals forces at play. And no clutter. Potent.

Kilgour jacquard

 Kilgour’s Jacquard. Obsessed by this major fabric, those peak angles.

Meanwhile, check these angles that Harp Boy is pulling, back when beards meant something. Cant get enough of this song currently. The long, lighter version is also double good too, this one is at Woodstock  (click) ffs.

22 minutes later, at 3.20.45pm, Nick Tentis‘ gaff was also looking rather suit suitable for my plans. There’s his hand and cuff, he’s holding a velvet shawl coat with unusual colour fabric I can’t describe with the amount of Gorgonzola Dolce I’ve eaten in the last three hours.

Nick Tentis shawl

Tentis, ‘Cocktail Olive’*

Original Rudy, Tentis, knows his way round slim lapels. We did some good slim lapel stuff today (now talking in future tense. Odd I know, but bare with me). 

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Ivory silk linen Tentis

Back in the pasted tense, almost bang next door to Tentis, is Gaziano & Girling, shoe fiends al dente.

Thomas Brunschwig

TB from G&G in C&M

Style Monger, Thomas Brunschwig from Gaziano&Girling was looking strikingly impudent and angled in Chittleborough unt Morgan as he smoked his surreptitious snout. G’wan Joe Morgon, we like your work. Meanwhile, also nearby..

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Thom Sweeney new three piece, forget, what fabric called. Soz

Okay, so its on sodding Bruton Place, but the Thom Sweeney boys new gaff was totally buzzing. Gets the sun, and everything. Both of those style Sartorial-Stalks  were grafting away on shop floor. It was brilliant stuff immersing in the real Sweeney world. Always like talking to the other men getting dealt with in there. They know something special is going on, and always interested in how and why they got in there.

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When it comes to fabric and texture, those fellas do sodding well. Even the posh hand soap in the toilets is slubby. No messing.

Thom Sweeney Aritson H'bone

 Thom Sweeney/Ariston H’bone DB that talked about a while ago.

As well as pulling some serious style, I had a fitting for new bespoke DB they’re working on. So excited bout this suit. You should see the pants they can make. Two pleats, high w’band. Mono-adjusters. Stop. Boys, the LCM is June, yeah? Early June, just so you know, right? This song for one will be blaring from my Mercedes Style Wagon while am attending. 

That reminds me, Jo’,  action more polka dots. We do need to finish this off, so cheerio. 

JG does pretty woman shopping stance

Jo da Pol’, my right hand Man-Dem, doing The Pretty Woman bag stance. 

Stubbs out. 

* Nicks drag name.

WHOLE LAURE’ LOVE, PLUS HALF

Afternoon Style Mongers.  Stick on Zep’s muscular call-to-serve, below, and join me in considering these guys: Saint Laurent’s French 60 ankle boots (click). Fancy them? Okay, maybe not at this exact altitude, but similar, non? Robert, out of Led Zeppelin, is wearing something damn similar, but in brown. Feeling this level of heavy for early May.

Saint Lauren French 60 Ankle Boot

Saint Laurent French 60 boots

As not been running due to naused back (one of the aforementioned pestilence)  putting on a little additional weight round the derby region. Minor, but if you wanna be dropping certain looks, could be an issue. No such excess baggage on Plant. A midriff to marvel at, and a navel to match. Lovely little denim shrug too, Bob. Cant run, in heels, or otherwise, but have been swimming like Tarzan. Not exactly the look. Perhaps heels will help the stance? There’s a good brown suede pair, below Led Zeppelin.

Surely these suede fellas are reasonably feasible, or is it just guitar rock talking ?

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Some suede, less mental Saint Laurent boots, somewhere on their site. Google it, or something.

More of the rock ‘n’roll sound and look in the coming days. It might be a thing for May. Meanwhile, May’s here everyone. Look.

Hackney Halves down Cricketfield

 Hackney Half passing Lavinia Villa, Clapton.

Was so doppio jealous of the Hackney Halfers when they ran past this morning. Used to love a cheeky half on a Sunday. Had to make do with watching Mohammad filming the entire run by. Too funny. Couldnt even get to each other. Was like a river of lyrca flowing down Cricketfield

Mohammad, Mrs Mohammad and The Hackney Half II

Mohammad not moving.

So in the end the adrenaline and other stuff buoyed spine and went out running for first time in 3 weeks and linked the race down where it crossed to Olympic park, on the canal in Hackney Wick. Was so exhilarating all round. Got off on the races buzz. Ran against the flow later on the pavement for while. Saw the Run Dem Crew (click). All new faces. No one seems to remember season 1. No one. Gonna do the Hackers Half next year. And the Marathon, dressed as seven Bowies. Film that one Mohammad, baby. More, as and when it happens.

Stubbs out.

PS. Robert, who doesnt want to be a backdoor man from time to time.

PPS. <pending, is with the rest of my overdue copy>.

PPPS. Britain: You need polling and I aint lolling.

IVORY WAY : CREAM SPLICED

Morning Style Mongers. Do please excuse the 6 day pause in proceedings. Plague and pestilence have plagued me somewhat. Just who ain’t getting P&P’d these days, right, but it’s the pestilence that really drags. Desperate to get this off chest before is bleeding Autumn, so just gonna wade in. Having some issues with wanting to wear tailored lines but not wanting to look like straight go-er, espesh  now it’s spring. Got one light silk hopsack jacket that like and made the edit, so building from that. Need new moves. Bryan got moves..

Stuck him in to liven things up, otherwise like pulling teeth. So, while grinding out me Sharpener (click) column (not really a euphemism) and researching light tailoring, I got sucked bang into cream/ivory tailored jackets. Cream & ivory jackets, largely intended for formal but worn fractured. Not all particularly challenging stuff, but what can I do? Finding works best with monochrome styling (as in black&white). 

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Cifonelli wool/silk/linen jacket – SS15 RTW

When I was in Ralph, Purps, admiring further Ivory shantung silk gear I tried it with my jeans and singlet, below. Rather liked, and also noted how slightly evocative of Vicious doing My Way. Slightly mind. Bloody loving ivory silk/linen etc though. This is way forward. Gotta break it though, or look like working in Cecconis.

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Ralphy Purple label ivory shantung silk jacket

Its not often you see a popped shawl collar, but as the song mentions, he’s doing it his way. Do you think he plucked those eyebrows? Seems unlikely. Sidney, its all yours..

Putting Umit Benen in again, to recap, as love this look all round.

Umit Benen

Umit Benen, tennis tailoring SS15

I like Canalis suit, see below, in cream ridged/twill silk/cotton, with really good pants, double pleat, high waist band. That new design bloke at Canali, Andrea Pompilio, felt in necessary to stitch in the scarf you can see protruding. Compusory, prescriptive styling, like when Burton’s do tee-shirts with a long sleeve stitched in as if have worn two. Not a positive Andrea, more self sabotage. Good news is comes out with a Quick-Unpick.  

Canali

Canali SS15

Look at Bryans slim bracelet strap gold kettle on his album cover. Loving that wrist poise generally. Ferry doesnt have to worry bout looking too too straight, though. Look, its a video illustration. Sort of. 

 

Bryan’s Another Time, Another Place, 1974 

This has turned out like my bloody column, quite dull, just a list of stuff with no attitude. Cant believe I even hyped this. Better split quick before you quit for good.

Stubbs out.

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Saucy Jack, in cream, in Chinatown. 

Ralph Purple label shantung silk DB

 Lauren Purple label silk , the way God/Ralph intended it.

 

IVORY’S THE NEW CREAM (TEASE)

Morning Style Merchants.  There’s a premium slew of tee-shirts in my living room right now, arranged in a non-premium manner. Of the elevated glamour versions, these two are the best, pretty much. Loving the ivory silk Saint Laurent one, feels smashing and drapes just lovely. Turns out they’re/he’s dead good at glamour tees (click).

Saint Laurent ivory tee

Saint Laurent Ivory 100% washed silk  T-shirt £280.

Look, even the hanger hook is a cheeky little snakey chain. Also note shaping darts to stop thing gapping unpleasantly, heaven forbid.

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Saint Laurent lapel details, bout £170.

This guy below is Richard James, and is less ‘of the night’. Damn gorgeous ivory linen/cotton slubby affair. Its becoming a more slubby scene, you know? Interesting,  since I had the word vindicated at The HTSI some years  ago. Anyway, I’m semi-flopping here of multiple failures. Multiple. Shan’t mention Rentokill, or anything, as don’t wish to alarm..

Richard James Ivory TeeRichard James Ivory linen/cotton tee shirt.

Compelled to bang this out to prove not retired/died etc, though. Its been emotional and busy, but getting through. The ivory/cream motif is present here, as when I do deliver a post post, its gonna be cream, sorry, ivory. Or did I mention that? Ivory’s the new cream, right? The puns that am swerving abound.. Cream Tees for example. Ivory’s A Big ‘en, which doesnt work at all, thank fully. Rentokill & Ivory also doesnt work, but my peruse it regardless.

Stubbs out.

PS. Went Battersea Antiques Fair with Walters family at weekend. Bought antique and mid-cent stuff for yard. Will update. Had to get massive mirrors in the little Bubble Ka. Was well embarrassing. Bring back The Aero, please

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Venetian mirror with luxe-tee-detritus in background plus Bird Of Paradise Flower detail